This morning is bitter sweet. We have to leave Moremi - my version of paradise - but I'm excited to see more of beloved Botswana and make new memories. So long Launce. After breakfast we jumped into power boats with our safari crew and guide and blazed through the Delta grasses dodging crocodile for Camp Okavango.
The trip is supposed to take 3 hours and with any luck we'll get stranded on a deserted island just like Gilligan. It's heating up fast and there isn't enough accessible sunscreen to cover my already chapped legs but the breeze feels cool. The Delta is even more stunning in a boat than it is from a plane. The channels are lined with beautiful trees and grasses including papyrus. The people of this region are very resourceful and utilize what they find on the land for their sustenance. Grass is used to make huts, baskets, and paper. The waterways are loaded with beautiful lilies and date palms rise up out of the earth and kiss the sky. About half way we moored on an island for tea and our Moremi guides handed us off to the care of the Okavango team. After a few photos our new vessels set sail. As we rounded a bend we came upon a bird sanctuary. This is the breeding ground for various species of kingfishers, bustards, bee-eaters, eagles, cranes and ibis to name a few. What a sight! And our resident ornithologist was elated. In spots the Delta opens up to almost a lake and is sheer glass. It's gorgeous to see the sky and trees in double vision mirrored beneath you. It would have been perfect water skiing conditions but no barefoot booms on board. Oh, and did I mention crocodiles? We arrived late morning at Camp Okavango, greeted as warmly by Hannah, Ange's cousin, as we were at Mo
remi. One of the first things we saw was a paradise flycatcher. I have never seen so many wonderful and exotic birds as I've seen these last couple of days. This flycatcher has a small iridescent royal blue head with turquoise eyes and a 2+ foot long bright orange tail of feathers. Beautiful! Okavango is similar in amenities but differs in vibe. All the same rules apply, we slept in tents (ours had a lanai), and there is a central lounge/bar area, fire pit and pool. The dining room is much more rustic under thatched roof and just a little less cozy in arrangement - more of a cafe style. We were invited to lunch, meet and greet, and orientation. The staff is every bit as welcoming and lovely, maybe even more so. In fact, the most beautiful person I've ever laid my eyes on is Gabs, one of the guest directors. His features are stunning, his skin smooth and the most perfect shade of dark chocolate - my favorite. He was very attentive, accommodating and worldly (more on him later). Many of the staff members here are either first or 2nd generation bushmen - some speaking only enough English to ensure death doesn't occur, but some are University educated like Toffee, "the candy man". Each one has such wonderful stories about their life and are forthcoming and willing to take the time to share.
remi. One of the first things we saw was a paradise flycatcher. I have never seen so many wonderful and exotic birds as I've seen these last couple of days. This flycatcher has a small iridescent royal blue head with turquoise eyes and a 2+ foot long bright orange tail of feathers. Beautiful! Okavango is similar in amenities but differs in vibe. All the same rules apply, we slept in tents (ours had a lanai), and there is a central lounge/bar area, fire pit and pool. The dining room is much more rustic under thatched roof and just a little less cozy in arrangement - more of a cafe style. We were invited to lunch, meet and greet, and orientation. The staff is every bit as welcoming and lovely, maybe even more so. In fact, the most beautiful person I've ever laid my eyes on is Gabs, one of the guest directors. His features are stunning, his skin smooth and the most perfect shade of dark chocolate - my favorite. He was very attentive, accommodating and worldly (more on him later). Many of the staff members here are either first or 2nd generation bushmen - some speaking only enough English to ensure death doesn't occur, but some are University educated like Toffee, "the candy man". Each one has such wonderful stories about their life and are forthcoming and willing to take the time to share.
e the Delta by Mokoro canoe, a modern adaption of a traditional canoe and the most popular mode of transportation in the Delta. They were carved from sturdy wood but today, at least ours, are made of resin. We hiked out of camp, passed the airfield, along the forest edge to the river, where our guides and canoes await and climbed aboard. Our guide was Ema - a beautiful young man with a shining smile and personality. Where English is lacking it was made up
with an amazing sense of humor - everyone is so funny and charming. It was a lovely evening and Ema pushed along
the channels with a long pole like that used in punting while we watched an
d photographed red lechwe and impala grazing on the shoreline. Night lilies were starting to bloom as the day, and day lilies, begin to close and a red-painted frog and his insect prey try to be invisible for the other. Ema made a lily pad hat and necklace of lilies as we waited to see if the frog would make his move. I was a little 
perplexed when they told us the frog's name until soon we spotted another just chillin' on a reed. He actually looks hand painted.Of course we had to stop for sunset cocktails. I took this (and every) opportunity to speak with Toffee, an educated guide, young father, the last of 14 children in his family, the son of a bushman, and an extraordinary person. We left the peninsula where we landed just as the clouds were rolling in creating another dramatic and gorgeous sunset. We returned to camp in time for dinner which was another amazing meal. Though we hadn't exerted much energy that day we were exhausted and looked forward to flopping into a comfortable bed and begin our pleasant dreams.
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