Monday, May 25, 2009

4 down, 1 to go

Today we're gearing up for a walking safari. Very excited about this adventure because we are on the hunt for buffalo. We've seen lions, leopards, and elephants - 3 of the big five - and hope to see buffalo and rhino to complete the quest. After breakfast we joined the birds as they greet another glorious day. Look at this beautiful pair of bee-eaters sittin' in a tree k-i-s-s-i-n-g. Scores of birds line the delta and we couldn't possibly capture all their beauty. Our boat would jar them from their perches and they'd be all aflutter darting and dashing in front of our boat as if escorting us through the channel.

We landed on an island and disembarked. Sompin' big on this island cuz there sure am a lotta poo poo. We waded through the dung and John gave us a briefing on how to behave in the presence of wild animals (thank goodness) and that we should walk single file and keep our voices to a minimum. He walks at the front of the pack with just a walking stick and binoculars while "Limit" pulls up the rear with refreshments and a rifle.

The guides are very attuned to animal behaviors and what type of shelter they like at certain times of the day/season/available food resources. We weren't walking very long before we happened upon a large herd of buffalo. A stocky and noisy wort hog was standing guard at their watering hole letting us only get so close. Buffalo is a favorite lion meal so they are most cautious and lions had been spotted recently on this island. The cape buffalo, in regalia akin to revolutionary patriots, were on to us right away and a few of them came in to get a closer look at these odd looking 2-legged creatures. Friend or foe? Giving us looks like what kinda lid is that?

We stared at each other for a long time until John started to get nervous that they were becoming agitated with our presence. Their body guard had sauntered off into the bush but egrets and ox-peckers are steadfast friends.

We sauntered along not knowing what we would come across but hoping for more of the beasts we had come to expect - and loved observing. It was a particularly warm day and sweat poured with every step. The animals were scarce and had likely retreated to a cooler place to wait out the hot afternoon. After a couple of hours it had become evident that we were searching in vain and decided to make our way back to the boat. We were suiting up in our life jackets and just ready to take off when John spotted a baby crocodile just hangin' out on the grass next to the boat. He could have jumped in if he wanted to. So I'm thinking and said "where's his momma, she's got to be close by" and I didn't want to be anywhere near a protective and aggravated adult croc. He told us that the baby looked to be about 2 weeks old by now and was on his own. You could see the little razor teeth protruding from his soon to be crushing jaws. He slipped under water and disappeared into the reeds and we motored away from the shore and back into the delta.

This afternoon we cooled off in the pool alternately napping in the sun and exchanging silly and playful antics like Cheryl trying to drink a beer from my cleavage!

The grounds at Okavango are not quite as lush and dense as Moremi but enchanting anyway. This is an example of a wonderful and natural water feature sporadically placed throughout the camp which is simply a few vines twined together and water gently trickles into a pond below. This is a haven for exotic birds to sing and chirp in the tree above and drink and splash in the pond below. The curio shop is in the background where handmade items, such as the beautiful grain basket I bought, made by the loving hands of camp staffers can be purchased. Cash proceeds are directly given in entirety to the craftsman.

I decided to try my luck at fishing later in the day. Only a few of us wanted to go out so we recruited Robert to take us to a great fishing hole. The delta is loaded with the famed tiger fish, brim, talapia and catfish (and of course crocodiles!). We were using beef as bait and cast our lines off the side of a shallow power boat. Harold was the only successful fisherman that day catching both a large catfish and a talapia. He threw the catfish back but we brought the talapia back to camp for the chef to prepare for dinner. Tonight was to be a very special celebration.

We had one family of three in our group who would be leaving us the next day so one of the girls arranged a bon voyage soiree at their abode. They were assigned an exquisite hut we dubbed "the mansion". It had been the residence of the woman who started the camp decades earlier and was a plush suite equipped with a bar and kitchen area as well as a separate bedroom, living room and exquisite bathroom. Lori enlisted the staff to put together a cocktail party before dinner and with the help of a child, Jen, laid arrows made of fern leaves on the paths leading toward the "mansion". It was a beautiful scene as the setting sun reflects upon sweeping evening clouds as the moon takes it's place in the sky - these and candlelight marking our way to an unforgettable party.

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