UnBELIZEable !!!

For those of you familiar with the Caribbean you know that it's hard to find picturesque scenes like that anywhere else. Clear azure water in shades of sapphire and turquoise laden with a kaleidoscope of colorful fish make this tropical vacation paradise. Twelve hours riding in autos, planes, trains and vessels lands you in San Pedro, Ambergris (Am-BER- griss) Caye, the largest of 200ish islands off the coast of Belize. You have to fly - at least from LA - to Belize City and then take a little prop plane over to the island. Its only about 15 minutes but all the while you can see fish popping out of the water and the 2nd largest reef in the world. The air is warm and breezy and the skies are clear.

I met family at the small air strip where we waited quite a while at the taxi stand. The roads in San Pedro aren't paved and most people travel by bicycle, motor bike (mopeds), golf cart or on foot. There are very few cars, in fact only the taxis. It is busy and chaotic downtown and since the roads are dirt and the rain is abundant you can image the potholes! It wasn't too far to the dock where the ferry awaits but they close the roads to cars on the weekends to make it safe for pedestrians and we had to take the back streets. This alone was an adventure dodging people, bikes, and dogs.

The ferry ride to Captain Morgan's resort is about 15 minutes from town. By now it was pitch black making each of the billions of stars visible to the naked eye and other boats nearly impossible. In fact, there was a fatal water taxi accident the same night I arrived probably minutes after we passed by. C.M. is the location of one of those lame, debaucherous reality shows. It is also rumored that Tiger Woods has his own golf course on the island. Stepping off the boat onto the dock you just immediately relax as you meander through the sparingly cleared coconut palm groves over sandy, moonlit paths. The accommodations are well-appointed (flat screen and wi-fi) yet beachy with tile floors, thatched roofs and a colorful mix of Mexican influence. The kitchen serves up mostly local seafood like conch but some local flavors are featured too like jerk chicken. The local beer is a delicious and light refreshing lager called Belikin. There is a nightlife on A.C. if you desire it but we were more interested in watching the sun rise over the eastern horizon which happens right around 5am. It's blazing hot by 7 am so the cool air of the early morning is welcome.

I can only describe this place as seeming like it's the end of the world. The expanse of blue skies and inviting blue sea calls to you from the lanai overlooking the swim-up bar. This morning we set out to collect sea shells. The best part is you actually can allowing me to reminisce of Southern California in the 70's. We found lots of unique shells and coral in the bath-like water at the shoreline before setting off with a guide for the afternoon to snorkel and catch dinner. He picked us up on the dock and we went miles out just shy of the reef and dropped anchor. Jumping into the water was like falling through a rabbit hole into another world. I've been snorkeling before but this was an extraordinary experience. Stingrays and nurse sharks are abundant as are psychedelic fish of every size, shape, color, stripe, polka dot, stripes with polka dots - you get the drift. We saw the deadliest fish in Belize and even a sea cucumber (I've never even heard of that). Other interesting sightings include the spotted lobster (prolific, and popular fishing) and lion fish. It was so beautiful and peaceful and since I have an underwater camera I videoed a few minutes of the experience. It was on this trip that I wish I could dive and fully intend to learn some day. Diving in Belize is supposed to be some of the best viewing in the world. Swimming with these gracious animals and just gazing upon the brilliant coral reef was really incredible but we had to catch dinner so we replaced our masks for poles and sped off to a spot where we could hunt snapper and yellow fin.

Fishing is a mainstay in Belize and a big draw for tourists (particularly lobster fishing) but we didn't have the greatest luck this day. It was late in the afternoon and they just weren't biting. Kylie was the big winner of the day catching 3 edible fish and I caught the largest of the day but only one. Our dinner was much more sparse than we had counted on but it was a lot of fun trying. John filleted the fish on board for us while the sea birds stalked overhead. Physical activity, sun and endless days take a lot out of you by sundown so collapsing is almost a rule.

The next morning we took the resort's bicycles into town for some homemade coconut ice cream at Manelli's. The 4 mile one way trip is is made - ideally before it gets blazing hot - on the hard pack sand "highway" running adjacent the beach. This is the road the locals use to go back and forth to work on the resorts from San Pedro. There was a slight breeze at our backs pushing us through the powder white sand under the low hanging palms at water's edge as other resorts and private residences recede in our wake. At the edge of town the sandy road ends so we cross into the back roads and bump and warble over the pot holes along the lagoon surrounded by brightly colored condos before crossing over a toll bridge. The recently constructed bridge hovers over a recent hurricane created river and promises a bustling center town. Since tourism is a primary industry artisans line up there goods in the town square. Jewelry and wood carvings are among the most popular items. I purchased a zericote wood carving that was lovingly honed and sanded many times over before applying a protective coat of beeswax for sheen. It was here that I met Capine. I first noticed him riding a bike while I was chatting with some young school children. Capine is a very special and talented cyclist riding the handlebars with confidence and ease. What's so interesting about Capine is that he is a RACOON! I have never seen such a thing. He is a gentle and friendly beast who let me pet him and even took the money out of my hand. We made a couple detours to the market for some fresh and relatively inexpensive food before grabbing a Mojito for the ride back. A refreshing dive in the pool upon return was critical to beat the afternoon humidity.

Relaxing this afternoon poolside with pantie rippers (rum and pineapple juice) was the perfect prelude to an intoxicating conversation with Joe. I met Joe when I wandered down to the beach to have a few minutes away from the chatter of New Yorkers. Local Joe was propped up by a tree with a backpack full of hand carved goodies. He hobbled over to my chaise and collapsed on the one next to me winded from the 10 foot walk dragging his leg behind him. Joe walked with a severe limp and pronounced himself a craftsman and herbal healer. He pridefully extracted each of his art pieces from the bag one by one and shared the story behind each one telling me of how he went deep into the rainforest to find the perfect logs, some weighing 200 pounds, and his painstaking effort to get them home. He described the labor-intensive process of of chiseling and carving and sanding over and over to achieve the perfect piece. He also told me of the moon's role and how important it is to cut the wood between 3 days before and after a full moon and the wood will last over 70 years. He said it was the same for the thatched roof construction; if cut in keeping with the moon's cycle it will withstand hurricanes. I learned that the national flower is the black orchid; the bird is the toucan; tree is mahogany; and the fish is the angel fish. He was a wealth of information and fascinating to talk to. After a while I felt comfortable enough to ask what happened to his leg. He said he had been the first child on the island to have contracted polio. Later we learned that he told someone else a tree fell on his leg in the forest. So now I feel as though any unverifiable thing we discussed is b.s. The world is full of characters.

The evening ushered in a beautiful breeze so we took to the beach volleyball court with some of the local kids. The kids live in the neighborhood behind the resort and they are very sweet and respectful so the resort staff allow them to hang around and fraternize with the guests. My niece and nephew have basically grown up with them over the last 5 years and look forward to playing with them each year. Two of the kids were sent home from school early today - one of them blew out his shoes and the other his pants. It is a strictly enforced policy that children have shoes and proper attire in school. The mosquitoes made us forfeit the volleyball game at sundown. It was Belizean Culture night at Captain's. We decided to forgo the festivities which were rather lame and walked the shoreline instead. The sky was especially clear and the stars were innumerable and gazing on them is magic. Sadly in order to enjoy the beautiful balmy nights around here you'd better balm up on the bug repellent.

I awoke to see the sun rise up over the horizon but found the blood letting from the bugs at that hour just not worth siting outside so I moved indoors and watched from the bed with my steaming cup of delicious Belizean coffee and homemade fig and coconut muffins. Not quite the same but gorgeous anyhow to watch the sun's rapid ascent over the Northern Hemisphere. Today we're adventuring to Caye Caulker, another nearby island. It's a very Jamaican inspired, relaxed, bohemian, artsy vibe on Caye Caulker and I absolutely loved it. The island is walkable from end to end. We meandered around the center of town for a bit seeing the health office/post office/library building across from the grocery/hardware/sell everything department store. A golf cart taxi driver offered us a cheap ride to "the split" so we took it. The split is a cut in the island made by a wicked hurricane in the 60's. There is a cabana style bar there - and not much else - surrounded by a decimated cement wall, great for diving into the crystal clear water and coupling as a protective environment for oodles of fish. A weathered old captain had docked his large sailboat next to the bar and I forget the woman's name the vessel was named after, Lucille or something, but it had Seattle, WA painted on it. So I climbed aboard to discover what the trip was like from Washington State on the Pacific coast and how he got to the Caribbean. I was expecting an Ernest Hemingway tale but the guy was a honest to goodness dud saying he had purchased the boat from Florida and sailed from there. We rented snorkels from him and spent the day snorkeling, swimming, sunning and indulging the bartenders creative whims. An Oregon ex-pat was walking around selling homemade pizza which was literally one of the best I've ever had. Since food is so expensive and fresh food not readily available you have to get quite creative and she did. Yum! A French man traveling through Mexico and Central & South America, Jean Luc, was pleasant company at the bar and listening to him recount his adventures was fun. He was perturbed at the fact that the bartender wasn't serving coffee. Later, we sauntered back into town to catch the ferry back to San Pedro stopping to chat with many friendly and beautiful families. Time ain't nothing but a thang on the islands and our ferry arrived well past it's schedule. The resort has their own shuttle service to and from town but again it's spotty and not terribly reliable so when we finally made it to San Pedro we had to wait over 2 hours for the water taxi back to the resort. A storm was blowing in and it was getting rather cool on our sunburned bodies. It was a wonderfully relaxing day and should I return to Belize I will definitely spend some lazy days on Caye Caulker eating conch ceviche and jammin' to reggae beats at the split.

One of the things I was looking forward to doing was zip-lining in the rainforest. This excursion is rather expensive though and my family had already done it so I'll need to make sure to do that next time before leaving Belize City. I also learned about cave tubing for which apparently you strap on a miner's light and cruise down the river into pitch dark caves. Thrilling! I didn't know until the day I left (Friday) that they have tours leaving from the resort on Thursdays to do these activities. I wish I had because we just hung around C.M. on Thursday anyway. It's nice to offset fun-filled days with relaxing ones especially since the sun and heat can zap your energy.The weather was slightly inclement on Thursday and we decided to just mellow out on the beach and explore some of the surrounding area and local creatures. Lizards are the size of dogs around here and they hang out everywhere. All day is happy hour so sea breeze in hand I listened to the birds squawk overhead and the palm fronds rustle with the wind as schools of fish dart around our toes in the gentle surf. This was the type of holiday where it seems to go on and on. I was in Belize for 4 full days and it felt like 3 weeks! Bliss. Later we decided to venture down the beach for a nice meal. We ended up at a beautiful spot and dined under the blanket of stars having the island version of paella and a yummy glass of wine. It was a gorgeous night although rather windy and a lovely stroll down the beach worked off our meal. A night cap at the resort as the live entertainment was winding down was a good ending.

Well it's my last day but I didn't have to book until 2pm to take the ferry to meet the cab for the airport. We'd been waiting for the opportune time to take the catamaran out but the wind just wasn't cooperating. This morning our luck changed... sort of. So the Griswalds all take our positions on the rig docked at the shore and Dave pushes while running through the slimy reeds operating the sails and trying to get behind the wind. The wind pushed us right into the dock. We all got off, drug the cat through the slime, found the wind and crashed into the dock. And repeat. By the 3rd time the staff came charging over to save their expensive catamaran and told us that the expert would be right over. You could feel the pity coming at us as he agreed to commandier the thing and take us for a ride - although we lost 2 of our passengers to disgust. Wow! It was so fun. He took us out by the reef where the water was a little bit rough and wavy for over an hour. He told us all kinds of stories about hurricanes, the moon and the island in general. By the time we returned I had to rush. You never know what customs and immigration will be like in 3rd world places so I had to hang around the airport for hours but this is where I discovered plantain chips. OMG they're delish rounding out the many wonderful memories I have about Belize. I hope I will return someday to explore the mainland and delve into the history of an incredibly beautiful place.

Did I mention I like to travel?

In fact, I LIVE to travel.
I leave Sunday for Ambergris Caye, Belize.
Just bought a waterproof camera...
I'll keep you posted.

Artsy Ventura

Living on the pacific coast with over 800 miles of coastline in California makes for a lot of seaside towns. Each one offers something unique and charming in it's own right giving us lots of opportunity for exploration. It's a daunting task to visit them all but not impossible. Believe it or not we had never stopped to visit Ventura on any of our many trips up north. I read in the paper that Ventura was to host their annual art walk last weekend so off we went on Sunday. We arrived just about noon as the morning marine layer was rising from it's slumber over this quaint little town. Sure, Ventura is sprawling like every other southland town but the downtown area is a well-preserved slice of days gone by, flanked at either end with gorgeous parks and nestled in by the beach to the west and a stunning hilltop City Hall in the Beaux Arts architecture to the east.

We started the day at the Savory Cafe & Bakery. The ambiance itself could be described as sort of old world European furnished with antiques and other warm touches mashed with a laid back beachy vibe in an indoor-outdoor California style. We shared a large Tuscan table in the middle of the restaurant with other folks where they offer, amongst other savory dishes, create-your-own crepes with a litany of ingredients to choose from - I picked prosciutto, basil, caramelized garlic, and gruyere - and it was delish. Hand-cut pommes frites with a creamy garlic dipping sauce is sure to tantalize your palate.

As usual we didn't plan very well but it was all new and interesting to us so we just meandered around as we fancied. The Art Walk features stone-workers but other works like glass, paintings, photography, iron works, jewelry, wood-work and more were on display as well. Many of the downtown merchants use their shops and showrooms to host the artists' work and others open their studios for the event. There's a thrift store or antique mall on each block and Damon hit them all. It was late in the day when I decided to venture off on my own to discover the "art".

My favorite thing was a trio of metal works in a roots & branches nature series. At $1500.00 it was more than I was willing to invest at this time in history but I covet the simplistic design yet painstaking execution of the metal worker. I was also drawn to various stone carvings made from California materials in organic shapes. A wood carver was showing exquisite boxes he'd made from a variety of local woods beautifully constructed with precision. It was a wonderful day discovering new artists and another lovely California beach town.

Crisp, Clean, Green - Chicago!

I had the welcomed opportunity to visit Chicago to celebrate my dad's University graduation held at Navy Pier. I had been before many years ago and couldn't wait to return. But with so many places I haven't been and wish to go repeat visits require a compelling excuse.

A friend recommended a fantastic hotel in a perfect location right on the river at the Southern end of the Magnificent Mile. Vistas of the newly built Trump Tower and historic Wrigley and Chicago Tribune buildings filled the sight line from our room's window. As a destination city weekends are very busy and this was no exception since Chicago was hosting the marathon, one of the biggest worldwide because they do not limit the number of entrants. There were 45,000 runners just adjacent our hotel so we awoke to cheers audible 28 stories in the sky as they passed. And it seemed like every one of them was trying to get atop the (former) Sears Tower on the day that I was! Consequently, I didn't wait the 2 hours it would have been to view the city and Lake Michigan from the glass floor sky deck of the newly named Willis Building.

Unfortunately I arrived in Chitown with the flu. As the weekend progressed so did my cold. What misery being in a gastronomic mecca like Chicago with no taste buds! I did pig out on Chicago style pizza though and boy does it live up to its reputation. My dad wanted to see Jersey Boys, the musical story of the Four Seasons that's gaining accolades nationwide. In general I hate musicals but since the weekend was devoted to my dad I begrudgingly went along. The story itself was not captivating but the music was fantastic. Those songs were the soundtrack of my youth and it really took me down memory lane. The lead playing Frankie Valli was a replica of his distinctive, signature high-pitched voice.

The highlight of the weekend for me was the river architecture tour. It was a frigid 31 degrees on the uncovered vessel. Traveling along the Chicago river the guide gives a history of the skyscrapers that loom over the city putting into context the building, the era and the architect and the relationship they share with Chicago. It was a gorgeous sunny day, albeit cold, in this lovely lakeside town so my brother and I decided to venture down to museum park and visit the Aquarium. I thought it was a complete rip off, besides the fact that I have a problem with wild life held in captivity after having been in the wild. But we had an adventure anyway, met some really nice people and saw first hand why Chicago is considered one of the greenest cities in America.

Chicago has a public transportation system that's both efficient and effective- the metro, the "L" trains, buses and cabs - all reduce the carbon footprint in a city of nearly 3 million. In addition it takes top marks for being the best biking city in the US. Miles of lakefront bike paths equipped with bicycle cafes, repair centers, parking spaces, etc. really encourage this mode of transport/sport/exercise. One of the most obvious things I noticed was the flushers on toilets - up for water waste, down for solid - really cutting down on the amount of water used.

While I didn't get to do everything I wanted in Chicago, no matter what you do it's a good time in this vibrant, energetic city warmed by old fashioned mid-western hospitality.

Gross Polluter?

Have no fear Carbon Offset Kiosks coming soon to an airport near you to rescue you from the guilt of flying and leaving all that carbon emission in the atmosphere!

So what are you actually buying? You get a piece of paper that describes an offset project purportedly sanctified by the city as "real, quantifiable, and permanent greenhouse gas reductions". According to an environmental lawyer it's better than nothing, for awareness generation alone, but is unsure about the validity or value of the purchase. The kiosks cost $200,000 to install and are currently operating out of SFO where they charge about $34 per passenger for a 6000 mile trip, roughly 6 cents per mile. It has been reported, however, that San Francisco is charging 60 times the actual cost of the offset with a portion of the proceeds feeding the San Fransisco Carbon Fund.

The way I see it not traveling creates other environmental strains. What's next?

Step Forward Day

In memoriam for the victims of September 11th that day is a nationally recognized day of service. The alumni association at Pepperdine University is actively involved in community improvement efforts and encourages all alum to participate. When I heard that my local chapter had partnered with Habitat for Humanity I was eager to sign up and see what the organization is all about. I confess, my volunteerism is auxiliary to my charitable giving and as a consequence I am not very well versed on the inner workings of many do-good-er operations. My favorite and most trusted organization, IMC, reduces me to a fund raiser and donor, since my skill set does not include that of a trained medical professional so I have to seek out other groups to volunteer with locally.

I have heard good things about Habitat. Their main mission, and a bold one, is to eradicate homelessness and poverty housing worldwide. Candidates are chosen on a need basis although the criteria is unclear. This is accomplished by offering a couple of different models. The overarching one that most people identify with is the new build whereby candidates make a nominal monetary investment and a whole lot of sweat equity in exchange for a interest-free 30 year mortgage. Building materials and supplies are donated as is the labor involved in the construction project. A program called A Brush With Kindness is a way to partner with community members to improve existing homes for those families in need.

Our project today was A Brush With Kindness in a Los Angeles residence. Like I said the selection process seems a little ambiguous and I am trying to refrain from being judgmental in any way but I was a little more than miffed about this particular project. The homeowner is an elderly lady who has owned the home for 23 year years. The house is a spacious, well-kept Spanish style with signature tile roof and original wood-frame paned windows. The Habitat staff made a big deal about how she works with seniors in her retirement. To me, it seems like an unbalanced pay back for contributions she's made to her community to have a collective of 15-20 volunteers from Habitat for Humanity, Americorps, and Pepperdine University repaint the exterior of the house while 2 able bodied young men sat watching football all day.

I hate myself for having these feelings and am sure I'm going straight to hell but how do I sign on for a such a gift? My house, certainly the landscaping, leaves much more to be desired than this so called needy homeowner. The saddest part is that most of this woman's neighbors could have benefited from the help offered by this organization. Many of the surrounding homes are in a state of ill-repair and dilapidation yet the target property was nothing more than an ugly color.

My excitement about doing something that significantly improves life for a deserving family has been somewhat tainted. I my search continues for a deserving organization committed in practice to their stated mission.

Idyllic Idyllwild

A gem in the Southern California landscape is the charming hilltop town of Idyllwild. Nestled at the summit of the San Jacinto mountains this art enclave is a throwback to simpler times. We first discovered Idyllwild on one of our trips to Palm Springs when we decided to take the mountain route. It is a picturesque drive up the winding road to an altitude of about 7000 feet. The surprise (for me anyway) at the top is a village committed to art and nature's beauty. I had no idea that there is a world-renowned art institute attended by artists world-wide in the heart of the community. Otherwise, it is a sleepy hollow where urbanites escape to in order to breathe some fresh air and reinvigorate on the numerous challenging hiking trails. The streets are littered with art galleries and artisans crafting their wares. Another delighful surprise is the gastronomic accomplishments. For such a teeny town there are some amazing restaurants. My favorite is the Cafe Aroma operated with life and precision by Frank Ferro who's one of those guys you just feel like you've known forever. Live entertainment all day turns this enchanting eclectic forest dining experience into a fun sing-along - especially since the wine list is enviable.

We decided at the last minute that we'd like to go up for one night over the Labor day weekend. As luck would have it there was room at the inn and since Idyllwild is a pet friendly town we brought our pup up to wind down the summer in nature. We arrived around noon hour on Saturday and spent the afternoon meandering the galleries and thrift stores in town after a hearty and fresh lunch at Natures Health Food and Cafe - I had the Mediterranean platter - highly recommended. We had invited some friends to join us and they arrived around 5pm. Our dinner reservations were at 7:30. They only had an inside table but we have the dog. Frank in his most accommodating manner invited our sweet, well-behaved Jackson to sit inside. He didn't make a peep and most of the patrons didn't even know he was there. We had a beautiful meal, great conversation, and lively entertainment.

After a knock up on Sunday morning of gourmet coffee, freshly baked scones and homemade jam, Jackson and I set off on a nice brisk walk over to the Nature Center. Our friends wanted to get home early and since there is not too much to the town of Idyllwild we hadn't already explored we left after breakfast at Gnome (I recommend The Bread Basket). I was going to be attending a birthday party the next day and wanted to pick up a little trinket for the birthday girl so we popped in to a little shop on the way out of town. The shop is full of handmade finds from Nepal. It turns out the shopkeep imports good from his native Nepalese village to sell in Idyllwild in order to finance treks in Nepal with groups of Americans he gathers throughout the season. Nepal (along with Tibet) is my number one destination in this life. How serendipitous was this encounter! Idyllwild is truly a magical and surprising little gem.

Block Nine

I've got to give love to the Elephant Theater company and its subsidiaries. The cast and crew are so dedicated to the craft and aim to impact their audience every time. This in part because the audience could very well be planted with famous producers and directors. I've seen a few shows here - my neighbor is a company member - and have yet to be disappointed. Block Nine, written by Tom Stanczyk, pays homage to film-noir with his 30's gangster script, fraught with love scenes and themes. The clever part of the whole idea is that he has it acted by an all male cast. But wait. There's also an all female cast. I thought this was a really interesting way to present his work ignoring the gratuitous gayness imbedded just because. He had a female direct the "dames" and a male direct the "fellas". It was fascinating to see how the same script was interpreted ever so slightly and played out in such different ways. For the most part both shows - yes it was a 2 night commitment to view it this way - were brilliantly acted. There were some real stand outs in each performance. Unfortunately for the writer, the men accentuated how lousy the script really is. Fortunately for the rest of us, the women are so outstanding that the audience doesn't notice.

Jennifer Crawford

If summer offically begins on Memorial Day weekend we kicked it off with a trip to the mountains. We spent a glorious Memorial weekend with our cousins in Big Bear. Friday night was spent relaxing, cooking and playing American Idol on Xbox. What a hoot. It was a little hard at first to get your bearings AND follow the backup singers AND read the words (if you didn't know every one of them by heart). It took us a while to figure out that I have a loud voice (big surprise) and that I was hearing myself too loudly and getting confused. Turning the mic down was a quick and easy remedy. It was really fun creating our idols and getting just the right funky edge that we all wanted our rock stars to have. We even had a competition and got the same criticisms the judges give contestants on the real idol. I think it was a run off between Damon and Jerry for the title.

Saturday morning we awoke to a cloudless day. The Millers have an east facing wrap-around veranda that looks out into a forest - the San Bernardino mountains as the backdrop - and the morning sun is generous with its warmth. It was so great just to be in a loving and carefree place with nothing to do but take in nature's beauty accompanied by a nice cup of chai tea, a good book, and Jackson. We spent an enjoyable day sitting around laughing, playing pingpong and poker, making cocktails, chasing bunnies in the forest and watching movies. Jerry took us on a wonderful 4X4 summit drive culminating in a hike to the top of the world on Sunday. We thought we'd beat the holiday traffic and drove home Sunday after a lovely lakeside drive.

The most memorable part of June was the trip to Lake Havasu (see earlier post for details). Damon may be going again with a few long lost high school buddies over the labor day weekend for which I was invited but have no interest in tagging along. Another family trip is planned for the following weekend but I have a prior commitment that Saturday.

June was also a very scary (and expensive) month for us where our animals are concerned. I've written extensive play by plays on that topic in real time. The rest of the month was spent in town enjoying Jackson's company, with friends, going to the theater and just savoring the cool weather. We needed the rest to gear up for what was to come in July.

Every weekend in July was booked. Forth of July occupied that first Saturday and we traditionally spend it with friends who have a pool party and fireworks every year. They are some of our favorite company and it's always a great time. The following Saturday we celebrated a friend's 40th birthday and had a bunch of fun. The living room was turned into a disco and we partied till the we hours, dancing and singing. Then the traveling starts.

Who in their right mind would go to Palm Springs in July? It can't be so bad as long as you have a pool and a cocktail, right? WRONG! We drove out Friday afternoon on the hottest weekend of the year. Temperatures soared way above 100 - 116 on the register Saturday. We made the best of it spending the bulk of the day and night in the pool skinny dipping since we basically had the place to ourselves. The main thing that made us all so miserable was the a/c in the condo couldn't keep up with the unbearable heat so we scarcely got any relief but we ate well restaurant hopping, got our drink on and kept entertained by shopping, gambling, and clubbing.

I vowed I would never do it again but I succommed to peer pressure after a couple of glasses of wine at a dinner party. We boarded another booze cruise on Friday afternoon a week after a woman turned up murdered on Carnival's "Fun Ship". I had few expectations but devoted to having a good time anyway. This time around we were a manageable 2 couples intent on relaxation and we did a whole lot of it. We slept when and where we felt like it and partied in the same fashion. Since we had all been up early on Friday morning and nurtured a nice afternoon buzz we collapsed early on Friday night after our formal dinner.

Saturday morning brought 6:30 am alarms about a missing person. For over 2 hours, a staffer with an indiscernible accent called every ten minutes for "wawawa - wawa" to contact the purser's office. Finally around 9am the cruise director intervened to prepare all 3000 passengers for a cabin to cabin physical search for Jennifer Crawford. Within minutes he was back over the airwaves to let us know that wouldn't be necessary as she had just announced her whereabouts. Of course, this starts rumor and innuendo about her morality. We were among the haters that said she had probably passed out drunk in some guy's room who didn't know her name! We later learned that she had been escorted to the California border when we docked in Ensenada for the disruption to ship safety.

We decided not to take a Mexican excursion, instead we would stay aboard and enjoy the pool. After breakfast we thought well maybe we should just walk to the 1st bar off the plank and get a cheap margarita. As it were we had 2 of the most amazing mango margaritas and guacamole for dirt cheap and then sauntered back to ship. I went directly to the pool where I waited for the next feeding. After dinner we caught part of the late night comedy show where the butt of almost all the jokes was Jennifer Crawford. Sunday was a similar day - napping in the sun for the better part of it. Damon and I did dance in the disco on Sunday night just so our muscles didn't atrophy for all the inactivity for 2 days! This cruise turned out to be a very nice and low key experience - one I probably won't be repeating any time soon - but enjoyable and much needed.

We were supposed to go camping with some friends in Yosemite the first weekend of August and I was really looking forward to it since a) we could bring our dog, b) I've never been to the sequoias, and c) I love it and haven't done much camping this year. But our plans were snarled when our friend fell down the stairs, tweaking his knee and faced surgery. Turns out he doesn't need surgery after all but he isn't walking too well.

The change in plans turned out for the best since our niece and nephew were coming into town with their Mom from Oregon. Saturday we hung out at the water park all day - did I mention that this is THE best fun ever? - and Sunday played at the beach followed by an outdoor concert.

August is a month to recuperate and replenish the bank account from an expensive summer. I went on a couple of invigorating local hikes, attended a live polo match, bowled (for real) for the first time since I was a child, wined and dined and had a whole lot of fun. We hosted a very fun weekend with our nephew, which I've previously recounted and had an interesting week of live theater - I'll talk about this in a separate post. Damon has been fly-fishing in Montana for the last 5 days, living like the president, while I man the fort at home and enjoy time with Jackson and the last of my summer reading. I cherish the time I have by myself and use it wisely.

As fall rapidly approaches I prepare for a couple of Autumn trips - Big Sur in Sept. and Chicago in Oct. We usually enjoy an Indian summer in the southland at least through September and often into October. I've been wanting to go to San Diego for a weekend so with luck we'll work that in soon. Sadly, we are currently bogged down by ferocious fires burning all around us a little earlier than usual as we've been in a furnace of a heat wave all week.

Who says kids have more fun?

Wow. What a weekend! We had the rare privilege of a weekend visit from our 15 year old nephew. Friday night was spent out at the ball game cheering on the Dodgers as they managed to defend against the Cubs in a 2-1 match. It was such a display of athleticism to see Manny whack the ball into the outfield for what should have been out of the park but the Cubbie outfielder leaped and stretched and bounced on the ground with ball in hand. Out! The game went on like that all night. They celebrated afterward with the most incredible fireworks display I've ever seen.

I'm not much for theme parks. I've been to all the local ones more times than I ever cared to so I can easily forgo them and usually do, but, the kid wanted to go to Universal Studios so off we went. I haven't been in about 20 years and it's quite a bit different overall. The back lot tour is virtually unchanged but they've added many new attractions, including a few roller coaster type rides, and refreshed some of the older ones throughout the park. We had a wonderful fun-filled day in the land of make believe. The park closes early so we had plenty of time to roam around the City Walk which is a promenade of shops, restaurants and street performers. Our curiosity was piqued when we saw the Zen Zone. It's a sort of on the spot spa catering to the dog tired and weary following a day of action. We assuaged our sensory longings starting with a water massage. You lie face down in a capsule like a tanning bed and the water starts gently jetting over the plastic lining between you and the water. Afterward we settled in to the oxygen bar. It's an aromatherapy treatment whereby you breathe in essential oils through tubes inserted in your nose. It's Hollywood after all- anything can (and does) happen.

As if we didn't have enough fun already we decided to hang out at the water park on Sunday afternoon. Now this kind of activity is the best fun I've had in memorable history and a great stress relief. It's a great way to cool off and have thrilling rides on tubes, rafts, mats, or very near your birthday suit.

Top it off with a nice Korean BBQ dinner et wallah! another weekend to chalk up as funtastic!

Homeowners Beware

I think I mentioned before that California is busted... flat broke and defunct! And so is the City of Los Angeles. Part of it is because of the economic mess of the state and the nation at large. But much of it has to do with the incompetence of the city council and voter ignorance. I heard about this latest ruse and went hunting for the story. It appeared in Saturday's LA Times August 15th. "Hundreds of thousands" homeowners will have their property taxes increased because LA Unified School district can't pay the interest on bonds issued to build more schools.

In California, to the dismay of every politician who love to spend other people's money, homeowners benefit from proposition 13 passed in the 70's which limits the percentage of property taxes paid to local & state governments. They look for every which way to get around and/or supplement this cap and bilk more money out of homeowners to pay for their pet projects and welfare programs. Thankfully, rescinding this law requires a 2/3 majority and with any luck they'll never get it from the voters. Ironically, the impetus of Prop 13 was born of the inequitable distribution of property tax revenue to support public schools. Schools in affluent areas had more money to spend on schools than did those in inner cities. In the meanwhile, there's no money to pay for schools half built and reimburse bondholders for the capital - new schools or drastic overhauls to schools primarily in inner cities where the high schools graduation rate is roughly 50% anyway.

As my favorite talk show host points out...ballot buzz words are children and green. If either of these words are mentioned we tend to blindly authorize dollars that we don't have without consideration for the consequenes. Heaven forbid we actually inform ourselves before casting a vote that assigns additional liablity to tax payers. It seems that within the language of the bond measures that La Unified can raise tax rates even if they rise above projections if property tax revenue can't repay bondholders. And this is exactly the position we face now. As property values have declined, hence assessment values to which the rate of 1% is tied, there isn't enough money in the coffers to meet the commitment so once again taxpayers are asked to open their wallet in a time where it's already running lean and fork over more.

As pissed off as I am, especially since I don't even have kids and if I did I probably wouldn't send them to a LA Unified school, I feel as though the voters deserve it for not paying attention. They just sign off on millions of dollars as though someone else is paying for it.

S.O.S.

Save Our State parks!

California is broke and experiencing a budget crisis. The governor has proposed to close some 220 of California's 271 state parks to help close the enormous deficit. This is one of the many inane recommendations on the table to inflict the least amount of pain on Californians during this difficult time. The way I see it is there are consequences to bad governance. And many of the proposals I support like State worker reductions and furloughs. The last thing we need is more lazy state employees sucking off the tit of it's citizenry. California is one of only 2 states in the Union where the legislature is in session full time. Too bad they didn't have work furlough days - like ALL of them. I digress.

One of the draws to California for visitors is our natural beauty and the many gorgeous, accessible and affordable state parks. Closing the parks impacts its surrounding communities in very real ways as often they are remote and far removed from other opportunities to earn a living. Family restaurants, gas stations, recreation shops, etc. could face potentially devastating losses. Besides, it would cost us almost as much to close the parks as it does to keep them open. Unruly brush still needs to be cleared of fire danger, lawns still need to be watered, and buildings maintained. The parks could become a haven for squatters and other riffraff if they are not patrolled.

I encourage you to take a hike. And while you're at it make a donation - any size will do - to keep our parks open. Many of our local parks in LA county are on the chopping block. I read the other day that the public response to the closures has amassed a 30% increase in sum revenue. Visit the California State Parks Foundation to learn how you can intervene to keep our incredible natural lands for all to enjoy. And visit your Ca parks!

Star Gazing

The annual Perseid Meteor Shower takes place tonight with the best viewing time between midnight & 5 am. A couple of years ago we drove out to Joshua Tree National Park with some friends overnight hoping for the best possible observationof the light show. We arrived after a 3 hour drive in the early evening sweltering heat to join a large group who convene there every year for the event. We were able to stake out a spot nearby to set up a tent and haul out food for open coal cooking while it was still light. Joshua Tree is situated in the Mojave desert nor-east of Palm Springs near 29 Palms and is a harsh and unpredictable terrain. Beautiful rock formations dot the landscape as do the protected cactus creating dramatic vistas from atop one of these granite monoliths. We summited one adjacent to our camp that was probably 60 feet high where we watched the sunset over the distant valley. After dinner and little partier we settled in on our chaise loungers with our eyes toward the sky. The fireworks didn't really get rockin' and rollin' until well after midnight with the most consistent part of the showers darting across the sky very near sun up. What a spectacular sight! It was one of the greatest nights in memory. As soon as it was light enough to roll up our belongings we were on the road again for home. We all had to go to work that day but it was well worth the time and effort. Highly recommended if the clouds clear away. I will be setting my alarm for 3 am with the hope of catching a glimpse.

The Brain in Love

I was channel surfing the television when I came across this interesting program on PBS. The Brain in Love is a book written by Dr. Daniel Amen, a clinical psychologist, who through years of research, learned that before we could "fix" behavioral problems and relational troubles examination of the physiology of the brain is critical. Certain assumptions can be made about idiosyncrasies in personality found in the depths of matter in the brain's lobes according to his research.

Realizing that it is not possible for everyone to have a brain scan and subsequent analysis the doctor has developed a questionaire whereby the answers can provide a snapshot of what the brain looks like if it were scanned. From this information you can modify your own behavior to accomodate your brain's deficiencies affecting a better outcome. If one is trying to foster a harmonious relationship this information, and that of your partner's, is of interest in order to understand what work needs to be done and how you may be sabotaging happiness.

I found this a fascinating approach but before giving it credence I'll have to read the book and apply some of his principles to my own life.

Teachable Moment

I have been incensed about this story since the second Obama stupidly uttered the word "stupidly" when referring to the Cambridge's Sargeant Crowley's arrest of tenured Harvard professor Dr. Gates. If someone had called the police saying that my house looked as though it were being broken into and an officer showed up and asked me some questions I think I would simply say, "thank you for protecting me and my property" rather than launching into an attack rooted in animus.

I've seen Gates' PBS series the "African American Experience" and found his airs a tad hubris but not hateful. Had the president not given traction to the event it more than likely would have blown over without incident. As it were, Obama spoke out of turn without consideration for the consequences thus providing the kind of fodder the media salivates over.

I take umbrage that the cop has succumbed to pressure to meet on the white house lawn for beers. I think the invitation does more to prop up Obama's image than to clear the racially tense brown air. Seems to me racism is more often perpetrated by those who claim to be it's victim. And we all know that things are not as sharp when looking through beer goggles.

That'll teach you, Mr. President, to gather all the facts and not comment on that which is above your pay grade.

Sick 'em (or is it stick 'em?)

It's been awhile since I've pontificated. There is much in the news that I choke on routinely but the most topical today: health care "reform". I whole-heartedly agree that a system overhaul is necessary. Health care costs are completely out of control and I think there's myriad reasons why, including bloated bureaucracy. But I reject the notion that our health care system should be taken over by the government in any iteration; single-payer, universal, public option - whatever you want to term it. I feel as though the government does very little very well at all. As I skim through the HR Bill making its way through Congress - all 1018 pages - I aim to have a better understanding of the administration's proposal so I can comment with some intelligence on the matter. For now, I'll share my philosophy.

I believe that quality, affordable health care should be available for all. I also believe that we have an obligation to care for those who legitimately cannot care for themselves. The debate is over who pays for it and how.

I've lived with a nationalized system. Not only do taxpayers forfeit about 50% of their income to subsidize social programs but services are rendered scarce. Bear in mind Canada, one of the countries touted as having a stellar health care system, is home to a population of roughly 30 million versus 300+ million in the US. Simple math tells us that these numbers are unsustainable especially since only roughly 40% (and falling) of the total US population is working, therefore contributing. This not including shortages as a result of fraud and illegal inhabitants.

We have the highest rate of disease and leading killers - diabetes, heart disease are 2 biggies - further compounding the burden. I prefer to keep the government out of our affairs but if I'm footing the bill I want to have a say in how people live their life so as not to saddle me with their cures. I think the lack of focus on wellness and healthy living has been a detriment and will continue to be. There seem to be many more stressers in modern times that contribute to illness. I believe the trade-offs for taking a drug that supposedly cures contributes to making us unwell. These are just a few of the things we need to examine before handing over the one thing we still have a little say in to a body of bungling, power-grubbing politicians. There are so many variables and in various life stages that can't possibly be anticipated or accounted for. I think the time is now to curb the power we have given the government over our lives and tell them to butt out. Just as we have been strangled by insurance administrators deciding our fate the same would be true of government officials. All we have to do is look at the mess of Medicare to have the foresight we need into this new proposal. What happens when the money dries up or when China recalls our debt? What happens when the administration changes and, gasp, it's a Republican White House/H of R and they want to introduce their cockamamy agenda? I also wonder if doctor's offices and hospitals will skimp on staff and latest technology, equipment, and machinery because the allocation of resources is scant or the red tape too cumbersome (a la King Drew). I think we should all be very careful what we wish for. When you give government authority and power good luck getting it back.

A great deal of our health care costs are absorbed by research and I'm sure they lose more than they win in endeavors to find cures but why does health care have to be profitable? I've never understood why some are getting rich on the misfortune of others. Those who assume the risks should be fairly compensated but to gouge, misrepresent or even steal is not only reprehensible it is immoral - as reprehensible and immoral as unaffordable health care. Yes, I am in favor of system retrenchment but not at the expense of having big brother in yet another of my very private affairs. National health care assuredly leads to a national i.d. card or microchipping - both I vehemently oppose. The government already has a lock on our financial welfare why should they own our bodies too?

Bad parent

I took Frankie back to the vet for x-rays and more tests - nothing obviously wrong. The doctor said two things are fairly common in cats - lymphosarcoma and inflammatory bowel disease - but both require endoscopy to draw definite conclusions and neither are curable. I'm starting to feel like I've done something wrong to make both of my boys sick at once. They eat premium food, get plenty of love, fun, playtime and exercise. What did I miss?

A Fleshy Menagerie

I'm living in a menagerie - a maniacal and wondrous menagerie. You'd never know that Jackson had surgery a week ago. He is miraculously recovered. And there is nothing better than snuggling with my sweet doggie on a summer afternoon in the hammock listening to the wind rustle through the trees. Ahhhh. Not an hour later, as I was reflecting on what angelic animals I have, Frankie, the cat, for the first time in his life got up on our kitchen counter top and stole a steak right off the plate!! He's lost his mind - and nearly his head.

As if I don't have enough to worry about with Jackson, I'm very concerned about Frankie. He has lost about 25% of his body weight. We've done blood tests to screen for diabetes and thyroid disease (who knew both are prevalent in cats) but there is no glaring culprit for his weight loss. He has a very hearty appetite but is a skeleton of his former self. Incidentally as his weight is going down our neighbor's cat's is going up. It's possible that she is getting to Frankie's food making it look like he's the glutton. He'll be going for a wellness check and immunizations next week and I'm reluctant to learn what the problem is. My poor heart can't take any more bad news.

The Good, the Bad & the Ugly

I just received a call from Jackson's doctor. The pathology report is in. The tumor was malignant and because of a nerve very close to the gland they could not take out as much tissue as they would have preferred. He feels confident that they got all the cancer but he expressed the possibility that microscopic traces remain. He suggests that we involve the cancer team to discuss a course of monitoring through blood work or some other means since we are intent on avoiding chemotherapy and/or radiation.

Don't Worry, Be Happy : )

This is a commentary by Dave Romanelli on the article that I've posted in the "Mixed Nuts" section of my blogspot. He points out 3 specific things that happiness can be attributed to.


We’ve all heard countless studies, articles and TV interviews on happiness. But the other day I stumbled upon something that is just now being revealed to the media for the first time (Atlantic Magazine). It's a 72 year old study that began all the way back in 1937 when 268 Harvard University sophomores were asked to participate in a study measuring “a formula-some mix of love, work, and adaptation-for a good life.” And while many of those who were college sophomores in 1937 are now dying or in their fading twilight, this study continues to be diligently maintained to this very day.

And never before has science been able to report such fascinating and thoroughly time-tested results on happiness. Following are 3 powerful lessons from this study.

1. Have a Healthy Outlet

So many of the people in this study seemed to have all their ducks in a row. In their prime years in the 1950’s and 1960’s, they were making big money in powerful careers. They had beautiful families and lived in idyllic neighborhoods. Oddly enough, later in life, many of these fortunate people ended up breaking down mentally and physically. Why? If one didn’t have a healthy outlet for their fears, nerves, and struggles, it was only a matter of time before repressed demons erupted to the surface. The happiest people in this study had a healthy outlet. They were altruistic or had a rich sense of humor. They funneled their issues into sport, “their lust into courtship.”

It’s something important to consider. As the study proves, a human being can get away with sustaining daily nerves, fears, and doubts for a number of years. But ultimately, such a nervous nelly will crack. If you haven’t already, develop an outlet…find a sport, commit to helping others, lighten up, and laugh more often. A wise one said, "A person without a sense of humor is like a wagon without springs, jolted by every pebble in the road."

2. Don’t Take Yourself Too Seriously

This study, as reported in Atlantic Magazine, was summed up beautifully by the journalist Joshua Shenk: “Herein lies the key to a good life--not rules to follow, nor problems to avoid-- but an engaged humility, an earnest acceptance of life’s pains and promises.”

In other words, one can only carry the burden of a big ego and lots of pride for so long before your proverbial knees will buckle. Don’t take life too seriously. We all have weaknesses. Do you really want to battle your dark side year after year? Or might it just be time to lay down your arms, take a deep breath, and enjoy life. It’s shorter than you think.

3. Happiness Must be Shared

The other night I was watching the movie adaptation of Into the Wild, the true story of Chris McCandless. Fed up with the rat race, McCandless graduated college in the early 1990's, left his worried parents in the dust, sold all his belongings, and ventured deep into the Alaskan wilderness. Before dying of starvation, he seemed to regret his isolationist ways and wrote these last words in his journal, “Happiness only real when shared.” According to the 72 year old study, McCandless was spot on. In the study, those who spent too much alone time ultimately struggled. The happiest subjects in the study were those who sustained meaningful, healthy relationships with friends and family. One can never give enough hugs, say enough "I love you's," and send enough "I miss you's."

As I emphasize in my book and to my own crazy self each and every day: Livin' the good life is not fancy trips, and expensive jewels, and high brow country clubs. Rather, livin' the good life is livin' the moment!

Little Bo Beep can't count sheep

Tuesday:
Jackson cried and whimpered and moaned ALL night last night save maybe two hours. He was clearly in pain once the anesthesia and everything wore off. He was prescribed an opiate pain medication which we administered as directed. Shortly thereafter the crying started. The doctor told us that it was on the low end of the scale so if he needed more we could give it to him. So I pushed more and more pills with inacquiescence from him. I was afraid of overdosing him but likewise I was afraid that he was suffering. All along Damon said he thought he was tripping on the drugs. When I finally spoke to the doctor this morning he confirmed that Damon's assessment was probably accurate and we should observe how Jackson tolerates the pain sans meds throughout the day. Damon was with him the first half and said he cried intermittently. I've monitored him the second half and have noticed a large improvement although his eyes tell me how uncomfortable he is. I feel sick to my stomach knowing that he's hurting and unable to relieve it. I sure hope the surgery was worth it.

Wednesday:
Damon got called in for a job interview so I had to come home midday to be with the patient. When I got here he was sunbathing in the back yard which is a typical activity for him. The only difference is that he has a gaping hole in his ass that ants were sniffing around! I was petrified that they would crawl into the drain tubes and into his body. The rest of the day we opted to refrain from the use of pain medication at all since Jackson seemed to improve immensely. As a result he had a much better night. He doesn't often get to sleep in our bed but I thought I would put him in bed with me that way he could take the cone off and I would feel it if he tried to chew out his stitches. When I went off to bed I tried to get him to come with me but he wanted to stay on his own bed in the den. I had no choice but to put the collar on. An hour later I woke up to his moaning again. I realized that he was muggin' over that stupid collar so I coaxed him to come to bed with me. He quickly realized that he could get the cone off if he got up on my bed so he capitulated. We both had a restful night with only one interruption.

Thursday:

My lovebug accompanied me to work today - he was a very good assistant. He seems to be recovering miraculously. We still haven't received the pathology report but it may be available when we take him in tomorrow to have the drains removed. I'll keep the updates coming as I know some of you have asked.

Frankenstein's pet

Jackson came through the surgery just fine and is home resting now. I feel just awful for him as he has a drainage tube where the incision is to keep the area free from infection but it's hanging out of his bum so he keeps assuming the defecation position. So sad. There's not much blood but the area looks like its been butchered. It's probably just the swelling, shaving, sutures and dried blood but what a mess. He will have heavy pain medication as well as antibiotics for 5 days and a cone for 15, until the stitches come out. His appetite is as robust as ever which is a good sign but he does whimper now and again breaking my heart each time. I've been keeping a warm compress with peroxide on the area trying to keep him comfortable and of course he can still roll over for belly rubs. Never too down and out for that! I hope he'll fight through this thing and give us more joyful time.

A picture is worth $2170.43 and a couple bad words

Here's the X-ray that shows the bone that Jackson swallowed last week. You can see it quite clearly at the top of his stomach just under the spinal column in the left 3rd of the image. While this is an exorbitant amount of money and I know many of you think I'm crazy to drop it on a dog I am so grateful that this happened. I truly believe that things happen for a reason. He had just had a full check up 2 or 3 months ago and either the tumor wasn't there or it was missed. Unless he became symptomatic we wouldn't have found it for another year. By then there would have been no chance to save him. So as it stands he'll have the gland removed tomorrow and we'll monitor him very closely.

How!

Pigtails, polka dots and penises (sp?) are only acceptable if you're an LA dog! Sounds more like the title of a new Hank Moody novel. Jackson had the ultrasound today to see if the cancer had spread to his lymph nodes. The doctor said it looks clear and they appear to be normal size so we're hoping that removing the tumor will keep a recurrence of cancer at bay. Surgery is scheduled for Tuesday.

"I'm sorry but there is a malignant tumor in his right anal gland"

Life really knows how to wallop you when you aren't expecting it. I must say it was never a thought in my head that my sweet gentle boy who's always been the epitome of health would end up with cancer. I envisioned that he would just walk over the rainbow in his sleep at an old decrepit age. I am sure not ready for this.

All I have to say is thank God he swallowed that bone! He had just been in for a check up a couple of months ago and either they missed the tumor or it has just appeared. It was discovered during the pre-op exam the other night. The doc said she thought something didn't feel quite right to her so she wanted to aspirate it. I fully expected that it was just a way to get more money out of me. When I got the call this morning my heart stopped - ok, sank. So now that I've had some time to digest this unthinkable reality I've made some decisions. Jackson goes in tomorrow for an ultrasound of the pelvic area so we can determine whether or not the cancer has spread to his lymph nodes and beyond. We are praying it hasn't so we can proceed with surgically removing the tumor. I am completely against chemo. and/or radiation therapy. I want my dog live as happily and actively as possible. It is really hard to be in this position to effectively play God. We will intervene where we can as long as it is in the DOG'S best interest.

Pump it up

Just heard from the doc... took him about 3 hours to remove the bone from Jacksie's belly even having to pump his stomach. Thankfully there is no noticeable organ perforation but he said his throat is pretty torn up. I had hoped to bring him home tonight but they want to keep him overnight for monitoring and to regulate his pain meds. My poor baby has had some real trauma this year. He'll probably dream of something other than juicy steak bones tonight.

Here we go again

My dog is SO cute and SO dumb. I guess you can't have everything. Jackson swallowed a 6 inch raw steak bone initiating another very expensive visit to the critical care hospital. They took x-rays to see where and how it was positioned to determine how to proceed. They called in a surgeon who will try to extract the bone, which is currently lodged in his stomach, endoscopically. They are confident this procedure will be successful but if not he will have to have surgery to remove it. Poor baby :[ I know he is uncomfortable and is salivating profusely. They cannot induce vomiting because it could perforate not only the stomach but puncture the esophagus on the way up. So they sent me home and said hey would call when it's over and I may even be able to bring him home tonight.

The Hip

I love Canadian band The Tragically Hip. They've been around for over 20 years, enjoy largess in Canada and sell out huge venues. When they travel west they generally play more intimate clubs to a small Canadian ex-pat crowd in the US. Last week they sold out three nights at the Troubadour and I was fortunate to be in the audience one night. The Hip are hall-of-famers from Kingston, Ontario (not too far from my hometown) and have a kind of bluesy, introspectively lyrical sound. The lead singer/song-writer, Gordon Downie, has a soothing natural verbrato to his voice and a natural gift as story-teller. Even after all these years they still rock! At times, the music was a little too loud for the space but didn't detract from the quality. The guitarist is proud of his collection of instruments and played a different one about 10 times. Two sets, two encores, and over two hours of entertainment made it a very satisfying night. These snapshots are from my iphone so they aren't so great.

River Rats

I spent a few years of my early 20's, circa 1993, with friends on the Colorado river between California and Arizona down river from Lake Havasu. We would go for the weekend to boat, ski and party. When I met Damon I learned that he practically spent his childhood with family at Havasu. Yet in 13 years we had never been together, until last weekend. One of his cousins has carried the torch of tradition and camps with her family every year on Lake Havasu. We coordinated a meeting place and decided on a Saturday morning pick-up time. It's a five hour drive so we decided to nab a few hours shut eye and leave in the middle of the night to arrive in the am and avoid any traffic. His cousin was on the dock as scheduled and shuttled us back to camp. They stake out a claim called Three Dunes on the Arizona side of Lake Havasu which is the exact same beach that they used to camp on with their grandparents 35 years ago!

One thing I've always found about the river is how relaxed it forces you to be. We sat with our toes in the water soaking up the sun (which we haven't had much of in LA in a month or more), ate amazing food, played in a horseshoe tournament, slept under the stars and bathed in the lake. One night Damon's cousin took the flashlight and headed away from the beach toward the bushes. She let out a scream. Turns out she bumped into a 3 foot long diamond back rattle snake with 11 splines in its rattler. We had kids in our group so our host wasn't taking any chances and took it's head clean off with a shovel. I had no idea that they are blind and use infra-red heat sensors to detect harm.

It was a wonderful weekend full of sun and fun. Damon's cousin has a beautiful Master Craft with all the bells and whistles - skis, wake boards and even an air chair. Damon tried the air chair and got out of the water for a few seconds. Evidently all the rules of skiing need to be forgotten and a whole new way of thinking employed. (He did much better in actuality than the youngsters). Ten of us sat comfortably in the boat, destination: the famous Copper Canyon. Known for it's debauchery, CC is a cove where on holiday weekends so many boats would crowd in that you could literally walk from boat to boat. Since so many people raised hell the police have been barricading the cove on holidays for years. That day we were one of four boats in the cove. It was beautiful surrounded by harsh desert landscape and 40 foot cliffs that we jumped from. I had never been as far as Havasu so it was a real treat for me to float through the channel under the London Bridge which was sold to an American entrepreneur on the 70's and reconstructed brick by brick on site.

There is something very alluring about the desert and it's hard to leave in your wake. We were having such a good time that we decided to stay an extra day. It was a perfect weekend rekindling life-long relationships and making great new friends.

Jo-burg

Okavango's spell is upon us as we depart this morning. Today is destined to be a looonnnggg travel day. We hitch a ride with Dan back to Kasane by plane and then rekindle with Sims who buses us back to Victoria Falls airport for a flight out to Johannesburg. Luckily we didn't have any use for the fire prevention equipment provided at the air strip! I suspect we would have been in trouble.

The ride back to Zimbabwe from Botswana was a somber one. Botswana is bewitching and difficult to shake. But we were happy to see Sims again if only for a short while. We asked if there was anything we could do for him and his family and friends. He instructed us not to send anything to Zimbabwe as it would more than likely be confiscated by the government on route. If it made it through the duty would be so high that the recipient couldn't pay it and the government would end up with the goods anyway.

Sims' kids attend private school but there was some question about whether or not they would return to school after Christmas holiday. The teachers were anticipating a strike because salaries were so abysmal ($3 USD/month) as a result of escalating inflation. To add insult to injury, according to Sims, the government has mandated that only a certain portion of bank withdrawals will be honored. We now know they in fact did strike and that learners were turned away on opening day.

I forgot to mention earlier that when we entered Botswana we had to walk through poison to kill any remnants of hoof and mouth disease coming from Zimbabwe. I remembered this detail because after the plane doors were closed in Vic Falls, en route to South Africa, they announced that anyone suffering from bronchial disorders should take necessary precautions to cover their mouth and all should hide their eyes as the attendants walked up and down the aisle 4 times spraying some kind of fumigating disinfectant. Yikes!

We touched down in Johannesburg as we had 10 days earlier and reconnected with our Jo-burg guide who drove us into Sandton City's Mandela Square. The affects of Apartheid is still so glaring 20 years later. We passed through shanty towns where electrical lines hang like yarn above make-shift dwellings comprised of any random material available from corrugated metal to tarpaulins. This devastation just one or two blocks removed from gated mansions. Mendela Square itself is surrounded by a shopping center with fancy boutiques such as L.V., Prada, Gucci, and the like again isolated from the neighboring plight of Johannesburg's black citizenry.

The only souvenir of Africa I was interested in acquiring was drums. I had seen some in other locations but all had been a rudimentary interpretation of my vision. We had just enough time after arriving that afternoon to make it to the local marketplace before closing (and a major downpour). We entered the courtyard where peddlers accosted us relentlessly claiming that their bric -a-brac was better, cheaper, more authentic than their colleague's. I strolled around the kiosks, bewildered, until in a corner shop, where the shopkeep was tearing down for the night, I spotted my drums. Way up on a shelf, obscured by tribal masks and animal skins, lay two varying sized Ghana djembe drums - beautifully carved and tautly skinned with the hide of a sacrificial cow. I nonchalantly asked how much the man wanted for each - 900 for the large and 600 for the smaller. The South African Rand is worth roughly 10:1 USD so that would have been about $150 for the pair. That was significantly more than I wanted to spend and significantly more cash than I had on me (we were having a hard time getting cash from the ATM). As I pondered and stewed Patrick and I jabbed each other a little (again with a wonderful sense of humor). He is a gorgeous 30 something year old from Johannesburg. I was trying to grind him down and he was barely budging. I told him what I had in mind to pay but it was less than he was willing to accept. Our banter continued as I plotted how I was going to pay for the transaction. I only had US dollars, which he would have to pay a fee to exchange, and not quite enough of them to meet his demands anyhow so I was trying to scrounge more from my mates. In the meanwhile I said I wasn't going to buy the drums unless he played them for me. He made some excuse about being rusty but finally acquiesced. He played an INCREDIBLE beat for a few minutes and made it look effortless. I've subsequently experienced just how hard it actually is. As I was spouting accolades he impressed on me that a good djembe drummer doesn't just pull it out of the air. He said, at least for him, the inspiration, the beat, the passion comes from deep within and happens spontaneously. With this information we set off on a more spiritual conversation. We finally agreed on the low, low price of 950 Rand for both drums, though there may have been a hint of reluctance on his part. He wrapped them in wads of paper for me so they wouldn't nick during my travels. We were leaving tomorrow for Camp Mala Mala in north eastern South Africa. Mission accomplished. Now I just had to figure out how to transport them! Thankfully Cheryl had a large duffel bag that she had no intention of using and it was a perfect fit. We lugged our newly acquired keepsakes back to our hotel just as the sky opened up to refresh the "greenest city in Africa".

This evening was nothing extraordinarily memorable just the group getting together for drinks and a meal on the square before retiring early so we could make our 6 am wake-up call. But what was memorable is our first night in Johannesburg 10 days or so earlier.

After a 20 hour flight & lost luggage drama we were excited to get out on the town for some fun. We were pumped about being in Africa and in a celebratory mood. Beth had traveled on one of these excursions before and knew that dinners and spending could get out of hand so she talked Cheryl and I into avoiding that scene and going off for a threesome. We roved around the shopping mall a bit looking for the food court. There were lots of interesting choices - no Mickie D's but KFC was there - but we settled on pizza. We decided to share a wood-fired BBQ curry chicken on flatbread pizza. OMG! I'm not a pizza lover but this was THE best pizza I've ever had. Delish. From there we were in search of libations but a side trip to the gelato bar held us up. Outside a few restaurants and bars face the square. A light rain made it feel clean and fresh in the night air and made the Christmas lights sparkle like twinkling stars. We wandered around taking it all in and looking for just the right setting to have a night cap. Settling on Caffe Della Salute the jammin' urban music lured us in. Beth and I wanted to try some good South African wine but Cheryl prefers cocktails. She ordered a banana banshee from the signature menu. Good conversation accompanied by cool grooves and ambiance topped off our first night in Africa and set the stage for what proved to be the trip of a lifetime.

Unforgettable

I suggested in an earlier post that our last night in Botswana was to be a very special one. We followed the hand-made fern arrows to the "mansion" where others were gathered with cocktails in hand and some cool urban African sounds on the stereo. Lori had arranged for a bon voyage soiree for our friends who had to get back to the states. Camp Okavango staff were invited to join us and we spent some time sharing laughs and capturing their images for posterity. And then all of a sudden we heard this thunderous distant sound. As it drew near we realized it was music and chanting from a gathering of on and off duty staffers. They corralled in front of us and shared their sacred traditions. The camp managers had their cameras poised and Benito was enthusiastically jubilant. I said, "you look like you've never seen this before" and he replied, "they've never done it before - I think you all inspired them". It was one of the most memorable nights of my life. They sang and danced and squealed. Ben, donning palm fronds around his shoulders like blades of a warrior, chanted a hand-written song backed up by the cat calls of the ladies. Then Limit took center stage with his reed grass skirt turned percussion instrument as he gyrated to another traditional song. We cheered them on until they ran out of songs. It was magical! They had us all join them in a sort of conga line and we all danced over to the dining room, stopping only for the baby mambo to scurry across our path. I haven't been able to load my video so here are a few stills of the dancers.

They had the dinner tables set up in one long formal banquet style table with white linens and many of the staff tabled with us. The chef presented the beautifully prepared talapia that Harold caught earlier in the evening. It was slim pickin's since it wasn't that big but boy was it good as was the rest of another exceptional meal.

After dinner we took an Amarula (a cocktail made from the fruit of the Marula tree) out to the fire pit and had some laughs and great conversation. You forget being from the Northern hemisphere that there is a whole other sky of constellations. And in the bush night where there is NO pollution of any kind to obscure your view it feels as though you can pluck the stars out of the universe. We observed the Southern Cross and Centaurus among others I'd never seen before. This is where I fell in love with Gabs. He is without question the most beautiful person I've set my eyes on - his perfect physical features that is. I didn't spend enough time with him to know his heart but I found him very intelligent and insightful during conversation even though he lacked charisma and that certain je ne sais quois. Oh well, I guess you can't have everything. Here's his gorgeous face. I have corresponded with Gabs since returning and will continue as a pen pal until I get the opportunity to host him in California. He told me that his only visit to the states was to Orlando, Florida, which is the worst representation of the USA. Hopefully he'll make it to the west coast someday.

Redwood Bar & Grill

Since I first heard of this kitschy little place I've wanted to go and the opportunity arose when a friend asked if we wanted to celebrate a birthday there. Downtown LA has gone through an amazing transformation. It's gone from being a place where mass exodus happens at 6pm to an evening destination. The city developers and planners have done a good job of encouraging people, other than skid row dwellers, to live down there so there has to be something for them to do locally. There's great restaurants, theater, museums, sporting events, shopping and clubs. The Redwood is a landmark and a sort of jumping off point for many bands. Its a cheap cover and if you get there early enough there's usually time to hear four bands play. The door man's a bit of a dick but you can forgive his attitude when you see the decent list of beer they carry.

The Redwood Bar & Grill is decorated in a nautical theme like that of the captain's quarters equipped with with all the loot - wenches, rum casks, skulls. The menu is decent and the prices are fair. If you come late there's standing room only but the band is audible from every nook in the bar. The best viewing, however, comes from the main stage area. One of the best things about this place is the diverse group of people it attracts. The bands are all different so you're bound to run into a quirky variety of listeners.

The first band, Two Dollar Bash, was an eclectic group of Scots and a Frenchman living and recording in Germany with a very folksy, bohemian Irish traditional sound. Huh? But it worked. It worked so well we actually purchased a CD from them. The next band was a couple of freaks from Tuscon called, appropriately, Mission Freaks. They had an interesting sound but used so much strobe lighting I thought I was going to have a seizure. The female singer of the next group had some amazing pipes (rack and back, too) and blew the house away. As did her female drummer. But the last was an old time punker band, unimpressive enough for me to forget their name, with a front man being one of the biggest a-holes I've ever seen. We took this Sid-Vicious attitude as an exit queue and left the building before bottles flew.

"On a dark desert highway I heard the mission bells"

I get these ideas to explore our surroundings and luckily Damon goes along with most of them. I had always wanted to see the swallows return to the mission at San Juan Capistrano so one Saturday morning we boarded the Pacific Surfliner and headed south. It's a short little relaxing jaunt from LA's historic Union Station - a beautiful art deco building in downtown - to SJC in Orange county.

The train pulled up to the station - rather a break in the road - and the conductor called for us to quickly step off the platform as the train was only there a few seconds. It was late March and already warm so we wanted to get to the mission before the sweltering mid-day heat broke.

The "jewel of the missions" is among the oldest in California. An 1812 earthquake left the great stone sanctuary in ruins but other incarnations remain and are well-preserved. The gardens are exquisite from herbs and bees to roses and fauna. It is a lovely stroll over the grounds as lizards dart out in front of you and birds chirp all around. I'm not sure what kind of birds but they are NOT swallows. Not this year anyway. We didn't see one lousy swallow.

The mission was conceived of by the Franciscan sect of Spanish Catholics and built by native Indians indigenous to the San Diego area circa 1775. Exhibits of traditional life during this time period are on display. Everything is wonderful but let's be honest, besides the birds you go for the bells. And they are everything their reputation claims. The antiquity, the aesthetic, the tonal quality. Bellisimo!

Capistrano is full of so many delightful little surprises, like this dove whose made her home in a planter in the courtyard garden of a local boutique. San Juan is on the historic Camino Real and is an equestrian dream. These beauties were tied up under a shady tree along side the main highway.

Another reason to visit SJC is for the Ramos House Cafe. I saw an episode on California's Gold featuring this little gem in the old town district along the tracks. They are only open for breakfast and lunch and the menu is prix-fix. (And no Mexican). But the special thing about this place is the bloody mary. It's a meal on its own. They load it with crab legs, asparagus and just the right kick. Though the menu looked amazing, we opted not to eat here since we were really craving Mexican food. Turned out to be a good choice. I had THE BEST Chile Verde EVER. We strolled around old and neo-town in and out of thrift stores, home and garden boutiques and an architectural treat in its own right, the library where I picked up a coffee table book on Wild Africa for $2.00! We ended the day at a local saloon listening to a guy play the six-string guitar and patrons twirled around the old wooden floor under a sea of braziers and other "memorabilia ".

The train runs often throughout the day and we felt we'd had our fill so we moseyed on down to the tracks to wait for the sweet chariot to take us home, past what remains of Orange county's agriculture crops and back into the land of graffiti and traffic jams - the sound of mission bells being the soundtrack of our tales.