"On a dark desert highway I heard the mission bells"

I get these ideas to explore our surroundings and luckily Damon goes along with most of them. I had always wanted to see the swallows return to the mission at San Juan Capistrano so one Saturday morning we boarded the Pacific Surfliner and headed south. It's a short little relaxing jaunt from LA's historic Union Station - a beautiful art deco building in downtown - to SJC in Orange county.

The train pulled up to the station - rather a break in the road - and the conductor called for us to quickly step off the platform as the train was only there a few seconds. It was late March and already warm so we wanted to get to the mission before the sweltering mid-day heat broke.

The "jewel of the missions" is among the oldest in California. An 1812 earthquake left the great stone sanctuary in ruins but other incarnations remain and are well-preserved. The gardens are exquisite from herbs and bees to roses and fauna. It is a lovely stroll over the grounds as lizards dart out in front of you and birds chirp all around. I'm not sure what kind of birds but they are NOT swallows. Not this year anyway. We didn't see one lousy swallow.

The mission was conceived of by the Franciscan sect of Spanish Catholics and built by native Indians indigenous to the San Diego area circa 1775. Exhibits of traditional life during this time period are on display. Everything is wonderful but let's be honest, besides the birds you go for the bells. And they are everything their reputation claims. The antiquity, the aesthetic, the tonal quality. Bellisimo!

Capistrano is full of so many delightful little surprises, like this dove whose made her home in a planter in the courtyard garden of a local boutique. San Juan is on the historic Camino Real and is an equestrian dream. These beauties were tied up under a shady tree along side the main highway.

Another reason to visit SJC is for the Ramos House Cafe. I saw an episode on California's Gold featuring this little gem in the old town district along the tracks. They are only open for breakfast and lunch and the menu is prix-fix. (And no Mexican). But the special thing about this place is the bloody mary. It's a meal on its own. They load it with crab legs, asparagus and just the right kick. Though the menu looked amazing, we opted not to eat here since we were really craving Mexican food. Turned out to be a good choice. I had THE BEST Chile Verde EVER. We strolled around old and neo-town in and out of thrift stores, home and garden boutiques and an architectural treat in its own right, the library where I picked up a coffee table book on Wild Africa for $2.00! We ended the day at a local saloon listening to a guy play the six-string guitar and patrons twirled around the old wooden floor under a sea of braziers and other "memorabilia ".

The train runs often throughout the day and we felt we'd had our fill so we moseyed on down to the tracks to wait for the sweet chariot to take us home, past what remains of Orange county's agriculture crops and back into the land of graffiti and traffic jams - the sound of mission bells being the soundtrack of our tales.

Self. Realized

LA is paradise if you can get out of the rat race - and there's plenty of opportunity and space to do just that. One of my favorite places to meander is Lake Shrine. If you don't know its there you won't find it (and I'm not telling!). It was created by a yogi back in the 50's to enshrine some of Mahatma Ghandi's sacred ashes on the bank of a small man-made lake surrounded by lush gardens. People of all walks of life and religious affinity are welcome and celebrated here. For me it's a place of reflection and circumspection - a place to gain clarity and perspective. Or to simply be. In the moment. With white doves floating in synchronization in the brilliant blue background of the sky. Or maybe it's the swans gliding on the lake in the windmill's reflection that is so breathtaking. One of the MOST beautiful things about Lake Shrine, however, is that it's not overrun with people. It's very private and cell phones are verboten. Indulge yourself. You deserve it. Maybe you'll be inspired to take in a sermon at the neighboring self-realization center.

4 down, 1 to go

Today we're gearing up for a walking safari. Very excited about this adventure because we are on the hunt for buffalo. We've seen lions, leopards, and elephants - 3 of the big five - and hope to see buffalo and rhino to complete the quest. After breakfast we joined the birds as they greet another glorious day. Look at this beautiful pair of bee-eaters sittin' in a tree k-i-s-s-i-n-g. Scores of birds line the delta and we couldn't possibly capture all their beauty. Our boat would jar them from their perches and they'd be all aflutter darting and dashing in front of our boat as if escorting us through the channel.

We landed on an island and disembarked. Sompin' big on this island cuz there sure am a lotta poo poo. We waded through the dung and John gave us a briefing on how to behave in the presence of wild animals (thank goodness) and that we should walk single file and keep our voices to a minimum. He walks at the front of the pack with just a walking stick and binoculars while "Limit" pulls up the rear with refreshments and a rifle.

The guides are very attuned to animal behaviors and what type of shelter they like at certain times of the day/season/available food resources. We weren't walking very long before we happened upon a large herd of buffalo. A stocky and noisy wort hog was standing guard at their watering hole letting us only get so close. Buffalo is a favorite lion meal so they are most cautious and lions had been spotted recently on this island. The cape buffalo, in regalia akin to revolutionary patriots, were on to us right away and a few of them came in to get a closer look at these odd looking 2-legged creatures. Friend or foe? Giving us looks like what kinda lid is that?

We stared at each other for a long time until John started to get nervous that they were becoming agitated with our presence. Their body guard had sauntered off into the bush but egrets and ox-peckers are steadfast friends.

We sauntered along not knowing what we would come across but hoping for more of the beasts we had come to expect - and loved observing. It was a particularly warm day and sweat poured with every step. The animals were scarce and had likely retreated to a cooler place to wait out the hot afternoon. After a couple of hours it had become evident that we were searching in vain and decided to make our way back to the boat. We were suiting up in our life jackets and just ready to take off when John spotted a baby crocodile just hangin' out on the grass next to the boat. He could have jumped in if he wanted to. So I'm thinking and said "where's his momma, she's got to be close by" and I didn't want to be anywhere near a protective and aggravated adult croc. He told us that the baby looked to be about 2 weeks old by now and was on his own. You could see the little razor teeth protruding from his soon to be crushing jaws. He slipped under water and disappeared into the reeds and we motored away from the shore and back into the delta.

This afternoon we cooled off in the pool alternately napping in the sun and exchanging silly and playful antics like Cheryl trying to drink a beer from my cleavage!

The grounds at Okavango are not quite as lush and dense as Moremi but enchanting anyway. This is an example of a wonderful and natural water feature sporadically placed throughout the camp which is simply a few vines twined together and water gently trickles into a pond below. This is a haven for exotic birds to sing and chirp in the tree above and drink and splash in the pond below. The curio shop is in the background where handmade items, such as the beautiful grain basket I bought, made by the loving hands of camp staffers can be purchased. Cash proceeds are directly given in entirety to the craftsman.

I decided to try my luck at fishing later in the day. Only a few of us wanted to go out so we recruited Robert to take us to a great fishing hole. The delta is loaded with the famed tiger fish, brim, talapia and catfish (and of course crocodiles!). We were using beef as bait and cast our lines off the side of a shallow power boat. Harold was the only successful fisherman that day catching both a large catfish and a talapia. He threw the catfish back but we brought the talapia back to camp for the chef to prepare for dinner. Tonight was to be a very special celebration.

We had one family of three in our group who would be leaving us the next day so one of the girls arranged a bon voyage soiree at their abode. They were assigned an exquisite hut we dubbed "the mansion". It had been the residence of the woman who started the camp decades earlier and was a plush suite equipped with a bar and kitchen area as well as a separate bedroom, living room and exquisite bathroom. Lori enlisted the staff to put together a cocktail party before dinner and with the help of a child, Jen, laid arrows made of fern leaves on the paths leading toward the "mansion". It was a beautiful scene as the setting sun reflects upon sweeping evening clouds as the moon takes it's place in the sky - these and candlelight marking our way to an unforgettable party.

Farewell et Bonjour!

This morning is bitter sweet. We have to leave Moremi - my version of paradise - but I'm excited to see more of beloved Botswana and make new memories. So long Launce. After breakfast we jumped into power boats with our safari crew and guide and blazed through the Delta grasses dodging crocodile for Camp Okavango. The trip is supposed to take 3 hours and with any luck we'll get stranded on a deserted island just like Gilligan. It's heating up fast and there isn't enough accessible sunscreen to cover my already chapped legs but the breeze feels cool. The Delta is even more stunning in a boat than it is from a plane. The channels are lined with beautiful trees and grasses including papyrus. The people of this region are very resourceful and utilize what they find on the land for their sustenance. Grass is used to make huts, baskets, and paper. The waterways are loaded with beautiful lilies and date palms rise up out of the earth and kiss the sky. About half way we moored on an island for tea and our Moremi guides handed us off to the care of the Okavango team. After a few photos our new vessels set sail. As we rounded a bend we came upon a bird sanctuary. This is the breeding ground for various species of kingfishers, bustards, bee-eaters, eagles, cranes and ibis to name a few. What a sight! And our resident ornithologist was elated. In spots the Delta opens up to almost a lake and is sheer glass. It's gorgeous to see the sky and trees in double vision mirrored beneath you. It would have been perfect water skiing conditions but no barefoot booms on board. Oh, and did I mention crocodiles?

We arrived late morning at Camp Okavango, greeted as warmly by Hannah, Ange's cousin, as we were at Moremi. One of the first things we saw was a paradise flycatcher. I have never seen so many wonderful and exotic birds as I've seen these last couple of days. This flycatcher has a small iridescent royal blue head with turquoise eyes and a 2+ foot long bright orange tail of feathers. Beautiful! Okavango is similar in amenities but differs in vibe. All the same rules apply, we slept in tents (ours had a lanai), and there is a central lounge/bar area, fire pit and pool. The dining room is much more rustic under thatched roof and just a little less cozy in arrangement - more of a cafe style. We were invited to lunch, meet and greet, and orientation. The staff is every bit as welcoming and lovely, maybe even more so. In fact, the most beautiful person I've ever laid my eyes on is Gabs, one of the guest directors. His features are stunning, his skin smooth and the most perfect shade of dark chocolate - my favorite. He was very attentive, accommodating and worldly (more on him later). Many of the staff members here are either first or 2nd generation bushmen - some speaking only enough English to ensure death doesn't occur, but some are University educated like Toffee, "the candy man". Each one has such wonderful stories about their life and are forthcoming and willing to take the time to share.

Activities abound in these camps and this one gave us options. I opted to explore the Delta by Mokoro canoe, a modern adaption of a traditional canoe and the most popular mode of transportation in the Delta. They were carved from sturdy wood but today, at least ours, are made of resin. We hiked out of camp, passed the airfield, along the forest edge to the river, where our guides and canoes await and climbed aboard. Our guide was Ema - a beautiful young man with a shining smile and personality. Where English is lacking it was made up with an amazing sense of humor - everyone is so funny and charming. It was a lovely evening and Ema pushed along the channels with a long pole like that used in punting while we watched and photographed red lechwe and impala grazing on the shoreline. Night lilies were starting to bloom as the day, and day lilies, begin to close and a red-painted frog and his insect prey try to be invisible for the other. Ema made a lily pad hat and necklace of lilies as we waited to see if the frog would make his move. I was a little perplexed when they told us the frog's name until soon we spotted another just chillin' on a reed. He actually looks hand painted.

Of course we had to stop for sunset cocktails. I took this (and every) opportunity to speak with Toffee, an educated guide, young father, the last of 14 children in his family, the son of a bushman, and an extraordinary person. We left the peninsula where we landed just as the clouds were rolling in creating another dramatic and gorgeous sunset. We returned to camp in time for dinner which was another amazing meal. Though we hadn't exerted much energy that day we were exhausted and looked forward to flopping into a comfortable bed and begin our pleasant dreams.

4.875

Not all is grim with the economy the way it is. If you live life within your means and make some smart choices you can work things in your favor. We just signed the loan docs to refinance our house so we can add a much needed bathroom. I feel like now is the right time since capital is cheap, and great deals can be had on materials and contractors. With any luck, pending city approval, we will have a new bathroom/laundry/closet off our master bedroom by the end of the year.

A Song and A Dance

Tonight is our last night at Camp Moremi. I arrived at dinner refreshed and exhilarated just in time to hear unusual noises off in the distance. Soon it was evident that the joyful noise was singing. The staff had all rallied together to share some traditional singing and dancing with us. This was definitely one of the highlights. Frank even played an old wooden xylophone looking thing and sang a solo. It was magic. We'd grown accustomed to amazing food and tonight was no exception but it was even more special with the entertainment and fantastic conversation. Sadly, I didn't have my camera with in order to document the experience. But stay tuned, there's more.

As I entered the lounge I realized that new guests had arrived. It was a couple visiting from Italy. Giovanni was gorgeous to look at and a very interesting person to talk to. He had been a race car driver and lived for a spell in the US (San Luis Obispo) and had some neat stories. He also LOVES to vacation in Africa and was on his 5th trip to the continent. I was very disappointed not to make Namibia a part of my trip and Giovanni said if you only have one trip to Africa he would recommend Namibia just because you can experience all that Africa has to offer - the sea, the desert, the jungle, and the mountains in one country.

It was a terrific night and I was sad to bid farewell to this most special place where dreams came true.

PS Baby

We spent the weekend in relaxing Palm Springs. Our friends have a place out there so they invite us a few times/year and it's always a wonderful, fun and relaxing time. There is so much to do there or better yet, nothing at all. They have a great pool and BBQ so we usually just hang poolside with cocktails and cook out. They are located one block up from Palm Canyon drive, the main drag in town with a stunning mountain view. The landscape is so dramatic with the shadows cast on the overpowering mountains and the harsh elements of wind bending giant palm trees and moving clouds overhead. The building is a beautifully preserved 1960's converted hotel and is said to have been a favorite of Marilyn Monroe and Frank Sinatra.

Saturday was a glorious day and we were up fairly early after having chilled out Friday night so we decided to maximize the day before some other friends arrived. I had always wanted to visit the Living Desert Museum and heard it was quite an enchanting place so off we went. I had no idea what to expect and was totally surprised to find a slew of African animals there in addition to other exotic and endangered species. It spans over many acres of harsh terrain and home to many indiginous flora, fauna, and fowl. No expense is spared as it appears to be very well cared for (endowed by uber-rich blue hairs I'm sure). The most startling thing was the $7M exotic vetrinary facility. A docent took some time to explain to us that scheduled physical exams are posted and can be viewed by the public. We saw video footage of a leopard check-up. A few weeks ago an Oryx got it's horn stuck in a fence and was bleeding to death. They successfully amputated the horn and the animal is recovering nicely. We learned that Mexican wolves were considered one of the most endangered species and they brought a couple of them to the facility to perform invetro and have just released the offspring into the wild far away from civilization and expect that the species will propogate and flourish. While it's far and away the African experience, it is far and away the Tokyo one. There is plenty of room for the animals to roam freely and the mission at the Living Desert Museum is preservation of the species. Cool experiences like "Starry Safari" where you sleep in tents on the property are a good way for kids to learn how to respect nature.

It was an exhausting day just because there is so much to see and we wanted to take it all in. The weather was perfect but it's a lot of walking. Our friends were en route so we met them at Hamburger Mary's for happy hour before getting ready to go out on the town. After a brief stop at the casino (I'm not much of a gambler) we hit the strip. It is a well-known fact that Palm Springs is a gay haven. We decided to go dancing and gay clubs play the best music and have the least amount of drama. Hunters has a bar in the center of the room with pool tables and a separate room with a dance floor. A couple of male go-go dancers were staged to entertain the crowd and one of them was very good at getting everyone riled up. We had a lot of fun.

We didn't have time this trip but a really interesting thing to do is take the tram up the mountain side to Idyllwild. The tram is actually a gondola that ascends the rocky vertical San Jacinto face on a cable and is simply an engineering wonder. Once you get to the top you can see the entire Coachella valley. There are hiking trails that traverse the peaks and take you into the town of Idyllwild - another fantastic weekend away, but that's another story for another time.

You can't leave Palm Springs without a stop by Hadley's date market for a banana-date shake. It's tradition and it's the perfect topper to a perfect weekend.