Pula!

Pula is Botswana's currency and literally means blessings; blessings of a more traditional ilk like rain, a good harvest and good health. Botswana and all its blessed charms is my new favorite country. We learned all about village life on the the one hour road trip from Victoria Falls over the Botswana border taking us past "four corners", the junction of Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia. The road is a paved two lane highway running right smack through the wilderness. We had to slam on the brakes as a leopard leaped out in front of the van and darted across the road. For miles we drove over heaping mounds of fresh elephant dung and minutes later had to stop the vehicle and wait for the behemoth dung maker to cross to the other side. Our destination was the Okavango Delta accessible only by chartered airplane. We drove to the Kasane airport which is nothing more than what would be called a regional airport and climbed aboard a 20 seat plane. Weight is a very important factor limited to 20 kilos so many of the people in my group took only the necessities and stored the rest in a secure place at the airport. Somehow I got to sit up front with the pilot for the one hour flight over Chobe and Moremi National forests. I was shocked to see that auto pilot is used for most of the flight even through severe storm clouds.

The Delta is 27,000 square kms in area and home to only 60 camps. Eco-tourism is the mainstay industry in Botswana and the government is most concerned about it's preservation - both the area and the industry. Once we left the storms in our wake and could see the Delta in full view it is like nothing I've ever seen before. The closest resemblance I can think of is the Everglades in Florida. We landed on a dusty, gravel-y patch in the middle of nowhere. If you were on the correct side of the plane on approach you could spot giraffes grazing. There was a herd of stunning impala as well as our camp crew there to greet us. They told us that occasionally the ground staff have to drive their Landrovers like maniacs to chase off the animals grazing on the "runway". We deplaned in 100 degree heat, and humidity that robs your breath. We secured our places in vehicles with guides who we would remain with for the next couple of days and headed for camp. Camp Moremi is where we would make our home for the next 2 nights.

We pulled up to a hidden hideway in the trees on the water's edge and were met by Setch and Angi handing us cool cloths to wipe our faces from the journey. They asked each of us our names, matching our rooms and luggage, and escorted us to the dining hut for a gourmet lunch, al fresco. After lunch we had a couple of hours to get settled in and relax a bit before tea.

Setch showed us to our tent winding through the lush grounds and filled us in on the camp rules and expected program. Since this is a natural habitat for myriad bush animals we were not allowed to walk around the camp unescorted after dark. Our tent was one removed from "hippo highway". The tents are affixed to stilted wood decks about a hundred yards apart appointed with lofty beds, comfy linens, a fan, mosquito netting and bug spray both for room and body, tea station,
and an ensuite bathroom.
There is a seating area outside for enjoying the monkeys and baboons swinging in the trees along with countless species of birds and the choruses they sing. The most common is that of the red-eyed dove gargling a tune that sounds like he's introducing himself..."I am a red-eyed dove, I am a red-eyed dove, I am a red-eyed dove....over and over again to infinity - and insanity if you let it get to you but better than horns and sirens any day.

Electricity is only available during the day via generators which is turned off at night making the orchestra even more audible. It is so loud and soothing out there in the bush with all the animals lulling you to sleep singing, grunting, farting - yes, we could hear hippos farting, or at least making a similar noise - and baboons make this weird sort of clicking noise. Once you can turn your brain off which is trying to identify the different sounds it is the most beautiful sleep ever, even though it's still hot and sticky and the luxury of a fan is removed.

At Camp Moremi the safari experience is an all inclusive vacation and the program is fulfilling in every way. The staff, who are such warm, funny and amazing people arise at 5am and give you a morning "knock up" - they come to the door and softly say hellooooo until you answer indicating you're awake. They return at 5:30 to escort you to the dining hut for a nourishing continental breakfast of homemade pastries, yogurt, fruit like papaya, lychee, mango, & passion fruit, coffee, etc. before you depart for a 6 am safari. The morning safari is about 4 hours long with a little snack break in between - more homemade goodies and coffee. Then you return to the camp and have a little time to freshen up before a gourmet brunch is served. The food is unbelievable! Delta Desert & Safari, the corporate conglomerate that operates this and other camps in the Delta, plans the same meals for each camp and delivers food twice/month to each. There seems to be no waste at all. Whatever is left over from dinner the night before may be found in your lunch the next day in some variation like a casserole or stew. The food is some of the best I've ever tasted - they are very creative in the meals they prepare using seasonal and readily available fresh foods. The afternoon is free to do whatever you wish - swim, nap, journal, read up on the Delta in the lounge library, shop for local souvenirs in the curio shop, whatever you fancy. Tea time is 3:30pm consisting of a light and delicious snack and the evening safari at 4. With a stop for cocktails at sunset around 7ish - gin and tonic being the signature drink - you're returned between 7:30 and 8 for a quick change of clothes and more cocktails before dinner, usually at 8:30. Dinner is served in the formal dining room which is a very open and modern space with rich leather furniture and African inspiration. The staff introduces each other and the meal they have hand prepared for the evening.

After dinner a fire is built in an open pit outside where you can enjoy a digestif or coffee and have a chat around the fire under the wide open summer southern sky. This is the point in the evening where the escorts get a great deal of exercise walking back and forth from campfire to tent as people begin to nod off after such a thrilling and adventurous day.