Elephants! , finally

We no sooner left camp after tea when a call came over the radio that a hippo was headed our way and would cross right in front of our truck on his way to hippo beach. Sure enough seconds later we spotted the slick, sleek behemoth stomping through the brush. He was unfettered by our presence but we knew who was in charge. We could hear him grunting as he labored through the clearing, posing as if on queue for the cameras, before splashing into the pool to join his friends. An ox-pecker gets a free ride, and a free lunch, on his back.

At another hippo pool a different kind of crusher lays in wait. We saw what could have been mistaken for a magic log but in actuality was a crocodile stalking a pasture full of impala, red lechwe and baboons from the shoreline patiently hoping they parch and come down to the lagoon for a drink.

Frank could feel our determination to see elephants and pushed deeper into the forest than ever before leaving a field of wildebeest in the dust in search of our prize. By law guides can't drive more than so many meters (I think 30) off the trails but this was our last opportunity for Moremi to leave a lasting impression. Finally, in the thick brush we saw something very large appear to be moving. Elephants! And lots of 'em including babies. We inched closer to them as they made their way toward us until some ranger dude scolded Frank for encroaching on their habitat and we eased off hoping they would keep coming. They did and what a marvel. Elephants are extraordinary in every way. They appear to be very sensitive not to mention nurturing and protective. The babes follow behind their mommy with enough tether to learn the ropes of life but not too far to get a little suckle as needed. Elephant mammories look sort of like the human female's and are right up under their fore legs, convenient for a nursing "toddler" which can stand underneath his giant mother. It was really a warm evening and these elephants were caked with dried mud. They toss dirt on themselves and/or waller in mud puddles to keep cool. And the most interesting tidbit of all is how they communicate. They tap a front foot (hoof?) on the ground which sends a vibrational signal up to 20 kilometeres away! This peculiar telegraphic system rivaling Marconi's first invention alerts other herds of danger or signifies another's whereabouts. I've already mentioned how they mow down everything in their path but I would be remiss if I neglect to mention how the forest gets regenerated through recycled seeds. That which isn't digested is returned to the earth where the next incarnation soon sprouts.

Once we'd found the elephants we were so mesmerized that we didn't want to leave them. They were most tolerant of us cramping their style until they started to move and found us in their path. The mothers are very protective of their young and will let you know in no uncertain terms what the terms are. It was a little scary since they can and do charge but generally not without warning. At one point we were so close (and the truck engine was off - Frank was reading a map!) and the baby was heading straight for us with mommy not far behind beginning to get agitated. Yikes! In unison we urged Frank to get a move on before we were crushed like ants. We stalked them for the longest time before daylight started to fade and we had to jet back to camp by way of cocktail lagoon! I felt like it would be ok if I died having had the good fortune to cast a gaze upon these incredible, sentient beings.

I think I mentioned before that
the sunsets in Botswana are unbelievable.
Here are a couple of fiery scenes.