Angelenos

Not that long ago it was an act of bravery to venture downtown LA. It bustled during the day with worker ants who made a swift and mass exodus at sundown. "Skid row" spanned every street not just relegated to a few blocks. Thanks to some rethinking and a hefty infusion of cash, downtown has been transformed into a safe and exciting destination.

LA is the epicenter of car culture and it continues to be a uphill battle to wean ourselves away from the automobile. As we are equally environmentally conscious, balancing the two is challenging. Public transportation has been a source of political strife for decades as the city sprawls and commuting becomes more ubiquitous. Faltering leadership and misappropriation has left us without efficient and viable options until recently. In typical, wasteful LA fashion streetcar and train rails were demolished to build roads and now we are faced with the expense of reconstructing the rails. In a city like this it just makes sense to have light rail transport. The Expo metro line running through the west side has been open nearly a year now and we've threatened to ride it ever since.

The day we rode the train there was construction on the line so we had to exit the train around USC and transfer to a shuttle bus to transport us the rest of the way downtown. Engine Co. 28, a restaurant that I've read has great food, was literally in front of us when we got off the shuttle bus. We were hungry so we popped in for brunch. To start they were out of champagne for Mimosas. Ok. We'll get something else. We each ordered our meals and lo and behold they were out of that too and each subsequent thing that sounded appetizing. We left. Probably never to return since the service was sub-par anyhow.

Meandering under the skyscrapers of varying architectural styles we stumbled upon a farmer's market and enjoyed freshly juiced beet and orange along with delicious tamales. Take that Engine Co 28! We sat on the street with a young woman and her cockatiel, Abbey, getting the downtown happs while Abbey munched on her corn cob and strutted back and forth between my arm and her mom's. Pershing square is sort of the center point in downtown LA and divides the upity west side from the dodgy east side. These contrasts are as glaring as a looking glass as you pass over the singular city block from one to the other.

 The Last Bookstore opens a world of imagination. Sculptures and tunnels made of books in a large old shoppe dotted with lofty leather chairs and chill ambient music create the perfect place to become enlightened. Galleries sublet the upper perimeter spaces where artists inspire a deeper meaning. From there it's just a short jaunt to the beautiful deco Pershing square building and rooftop Perch. A casual french bistro is the perfect place to enjoy a cocktail on a gorgeous sunny afternoon. Sit on the patio on Sundays for jazz brunch with the sultry sounds of Palter Ego. Damon loved his jam-packed bloody Maria so much he had to floss with the celery!

We had never been to the Grand Central Market before so we dashed in to see what the hubbub is about. Meh. Snooze. But it's coordinates are just outside another LA landmark. Angel's Flight, the shortest railway in the world in operation since 1901, transports passengers up the steep incline to Bunker Hill for 50 cents a ride. The railcar lets you out at California Plaza which is just adjacent MOCA (Museum of contemporary Art). The permanent collection here is rather paltry and can be viewed handily in 30 minutes so we were happy that free admission was offered on this day.

With much of a full day behind us we started to head back to the train stop knowing that there was a hotel we wanted to investigate as a "staycation" prospect in the future. On route we saw the Standard Hotel. Catering to a younger, hipper, more affluent client the hotel is equipped with ping pong tables and a rooftop German Beer Garten. We enjoyed a pint and a sausage and carried on to the O Hotel. O is a affordable modern metro hotel noted for it's restaurant as well as accommodations.This one is on my radar for a low-key, wanker-free option. Besides it's close to The Pantry, a famous lunch counter owned by former mayor Richard Riordan that boasts it has never closed and never been without a customer since 1924. And it straddles entertainment hub LA Live to the south and all that I just described to the north.

LA is a bit of a conundrum. We are broke, corrupt, mismanaged - broken. The aforementioned not withstanding, we are diverse, welcoming, vibrant - alive. Broken but ALIVE. Los Angeles is a contradiction, a dichotomous place of everything and nothing. These truths are self-evident as one navigates the streets, particularly on foot. It's said that nobody walks in LA but we do. And we should. Because when you walk you get a new perspective. You actually have to exercise your senses rather than hiding behind your tinted windows and drowning the din by blaring top 40 on the radio. Angelenos are movie stars and the skid row downtrodden. We live in lush hilltop neighborhoods with breezy carefree ocean views and also in makeshift shelters in the roadside sand; near the glitz of the Hollywood sign and in the shadows of it and all it symbolizes. Walking and observing these differences forces us to examine, even reconcile, these two realities. It's one of the things that makes LA unique and beautiful.

Halfer

Halfer not heifer! An easy mistake though.
I wish I had the aspirations that my friends have but I'm happy to be a tag-along. Just 3 months after tackling Mt. Whitney I ran/walked my 1st half marathon. My friend had completed one earlier this year and felt like she could improve her time so she wanted to do another and heard of the thirteen.one miler on the most beautiful coastline in California on the Monterey Bay Peninsula. I have spent lots of time on the central coast, specifically Big Sur, but we'd only ever driven through Monterey. The race was the Sunday before Thanksgiving so I decided to turn it into a vacation.

The Big Sur International Marathon has been in operation for 10 years and is a top-notch event attracting participants from all over the world. As it was my first event I don't have anything to compare it to but I was thoroughly impressed with the professionalism and organization supporting over 9000 runners. The course route starts at the famous Old Fisherman's Wharf following the harbor and landmarks like Cannery Row and the Presidio, turning around at the mouth of the 17 mile drive and ending at the finish line in quaint downtown Monterey.  Runners are placed in corrals based on their projected finish time. The race began at 7am so we had to be in our corral by 6:30 which meant for an early (and chilly) wake-up call. Northwest storms had been dousing the area all week and rain was expected on race day. Although we've never trained in the the rain we were prepared for the worst. As we pigged out on donuts (I never eat donuts but we were carbing) we noticed that the street outside was wet but not raining. Once the sun came up it was evident that the storm had passed over and we may get a break. As it turns out the entire day was gorgeous. I even got a little sunburn.

There is a ubiquitous military presence in Monterey and BSIM did a great job of recruiting them as volunteers throughout the race route. It was a proud moment for me to hear these fearless defenders of our freedom cheering on our efforts. The streets were lined with supporters and cheerleaders with lots of cheeky signs like this one :)







With all the storm activity the ocean was completely unbridled churning up 10 foot waves. What a sight to behold. And there were crazy people surfing in it! Cypress trees lining the coast and whitecaps charging toward the shore like racehorses beneath a clear blue sky made the whole experience unforgettable. Fragrances of eucalyptus and salty sea air definitely kept us going. We are run-walkers. It is not on my radar to run anywhere unless a zombie is chasing me. At home we manage 3.8 miles in about 50 minutes. You typically peter out a little as your hips began to stiffen so we ran farther than usual right out of the gate and made up quite a lot of ground. Although our timing was stellar at each marker we had set for ourselves, the frontrunner was approaching the finish line as we were passing the 4 mile turn! The winner ultimately completed the half in 1:11. The athleticism and determination is enviable (incentivized by the prize money I'm sure). We finished in 3 hours and fifteen minutes -
# 6467 out of 9047 runners.

Padding over many of the famous places he wrote about, it felt a little like we were rehearsing for characters in a Steinbeck novel.
The route is breathtaking and not at all challenging. In fact the scenery, the weather, the participants, and especially the GU (a gooey energy boost) were all invigorating. I had spent the year hiking mountains so this was a lovely way to end the year. Knowing that my epsom's salt bath and a massage awaited made the finish even sweeter. One more box ticked.

During one of our training days in LA I learned that there is a triathlon event in Hermosa Beach. Next up on the agenda, since I'm clearly goal oriented, is the "Day at the Beach Tri" including a 1/4 mile ocean swim, 10 mile bike and 3 mile run. Totally doable with a little guts and gumption. I have never been athletic a day in my life. I'm just a woman who loves life and a challenge. Above all I love the beauty all around us and I can't get enough of it.

November

David Mamet is a brilliant penman with an impeccable brand of humanity and hilarity. The Mark Taper Forum and LA's Center Theater Group is one of my favorite venues to engage in theater. I say engage because it is an intimate space where you literally feel as though you are part of the performance.

This production is so timely as we are squarely in the throngs of election season. In November Charlie Smith, played by Ed Bagley Jr., is the President of the United States just a few days before he hopes to be re-elected for a second term. His chief of staff is telling him he hasn't a hope in hell of winning and might as well concede the election before voting has even began. A desperate Smith implores is lesbian speech writer, Felicity Huffman, to write the speech of all speeches that will guarantee him the election in exchange for is support of gay marriage, a position counter to his party's. As he's simultaneously pandering for money from Indian tribes a traditional part of the presidential duty is to pardon the Thanksgiving turkey.

Chaos and comedy rule the day in this politically incorrect tale.

"Cankles"

22 miles, 17 hours, 2 friends, 1 big ass mountain!

Months of planning, training and anticipating could not prepare us for the actuality of the climb up to Mount Whitney peak. It wasn't that we weren't conditioned or even that the trek requires bona fide mountaineering. Nope, it didn't take any special skill set just unmitigated will and determination. Our permit was for Sunday August 19th beginning at 12am. So we decidedly went up to altitude to acclimate for a couple of days. We arrived to retrieve our permit from the visitor's center in Lone Pine at noonish on Friday and had a lengthy chat with the ranger. I had secured permits for both overnight and a one day excursion thinking that if we felt unready we could just camp out mountain-side with our gear at the half way point. It doesn't work that way. They made us choose and told us to be prepared to see bears. We camped out both Friday and Saturday nights with not so much as a glint of yogi. We did some exploring and met lots of interesting people and heard terrific tales of their own explorations.

The Sierra Nevada range is vast and rugged and stunning. There is such a variety of eco-systems; from lush, dense forests to barren, granite shears. Mount Whitney is on the eastern side of the range surrounded by other noteworthy high peaks. We figured it would take the better part of the 24 hour period of our permit so we wanted to get out early. I didn't sleep at all Saturday night and very little on Friday but we set the clock for 12am. Although we had packed up the night before it took a while to get it together enough to get going. We departed the trailhead at 1am. It was a beautiful clear and starry sky with just a sliver of moon glowing. I like to hike in a dress and my pack, already 16-17 lbs, was heavy with water, food, gear and extra clothing so I layered up anticipating it getting cooler the higher we climbed. It was the middle of the night after all and we were at 8300' but of course climbing a steep mountain in base layer clothing gets you sweaty. We're old so we had to take a few rests along the way but surprisingly we made terrific time to the half way point at Trail Camp. It was before dawn, about 5am, 12'200 feet, freezing and windy. I was completely exhausted, layered up in in every piece of clothing I had and pondering what the hell I was doing and why. I tend to lose my appetite when hiking (which I've learned is fairly common) but I knew I had to get some energy. It took me about an hour to choke down an energy bar while I paced around trying to get warm. I wanted to quit so bad but knew I had to rally. So off we went. The 97 switchbacks start from Trail Camp and end at Trail Crest which is the top of the ridgeline that leads to the Whitney summit to the east and the John Muir trail to the west.

Passing through the "windows" - narrow footpaths opening to shear, expansive vistas on either side - is not for the fainthearted. The trails are very well maintained and well-traveled but often rocky and loose and some rather narrow. If you can keep your stomach down it is spectacularly breathtaking to stand in the middle of a window and do a 360 degree turn and take it all in. From Trail Crest it is another 3 miles to the summit and a good 3 hours scrambling over both boulders and loose rocks. There's not a lot of altitude gain on the ridge but most of it is around 14,000 feet taxing your oxygen intake. It is completely exposed to the elements and highly recommended that you depart the summit by noon to avoid inclement weather that often rolls through in the afternoons. I was very concerned about this as we could see clouds gathering in the distance and had heard stories of climbers the day before getting caught in a hail storm. Onward we plodded making our way nearer and nearer the summit uplifted by those already descending offering words of encouragement. You can see the top about a 1/4 mile before you reach it which for me was torturous because it looked closer than it was. But once there it was nothing short of miraculous. Not only do you feel an overwhelming sense of accomplishment and self-pride but you can sit down for a few minutes, catch your breath and rest your weary bones. We lingered on the summit for about a half an hour before we started ambling our way back down.

It took us 10 hours to reach the summit. We didn't have any idea how long it would take to get down but we had budgeted 18 hours round trip. That said I expected a significant reduction on the descent including accounting for the fact that we'd been walking all night. I was anxious to get entirely off the ridge before any signs of thunderstorms appeared and to return to camp before dark as our headlamps were diminishing in strength. We did get a few drops of rain but nothing serious. Coming down was like a whole new experience altogether. You see things from a completely different perspective and since we'd hiked half of it in the dark we were awestruck all over again. Above the tree line the mountain resembles how I imagine the surface of the moon to look. And although we'd heard them in the dark on the way up, we got to see the numerous waterfalls along with beautiful lakes and meadows.

We had done enough training that I knew descending had it's own challenges but I was not prepared for the brutal pounding that my poor feet took. The last mile or two I wished I could have lopped off my legs at the ankles and rolled the rest of the way down. I had hiking poles and quite seriously needed them as additional legs to take the weight off my crushed toes. It was days before the swelling in my feet and ankles went down and weeks later I still had bruises on my pinkie toes. Not long thereafter my toenails started dropping off. I only have six little bonnets on my ten little piggies. As challenging and tiring as it was, and for as much grumbling as I did mountainside, I feel like I could do it again. And may. You see, I've learned some things... the first being that I would take a bottle of champagne and eliminate much of the other weight in my pack to make room for it! With endless gratitude I thank not only my extraordinary friend, hiking partner, cheerleader, entertainer and photographer (JN), but also the many many volunteers we saw. Hanging from the sides of cliffs using sledgehammers and pics they work like machines carving out safer routes for the thousands of adventurers that enjoy the wilderness on a daily basis. Mount Whitney is simply majestic and I'm so thankful that I was able to enjoy her beauty and awe! Additionally, I am in awe of the nearly $3000 that friends and family donated on my behalf to the International Medical Corps so they can carry out critical work in the human world equitable in majesty and beauty to the natural world.

Diary of A Mad (Hiker) WoMan

My friend decided that he wanted to climb Mt. Whitney in honor of his half century of life on this beautiful earth and asked if I wanted to join. Without much thought I beamed "Yes!". Little did I know what painstaking effort it would take to prepare for such a feat. You see, Mount Whitney is the tallest mountain peak in the US outside of Alaska. Its jagged peaks rest at 14, 504 feet above sea level in the Sierra Nevada mountain range in central California. From the trail head at Whitney Portal, elevation 8300', it is 11 miles to the summit and a 6200' gain in elevation. The altitude makes this a very challenging adventure. And once you get to the top you have to get back down  - a task equally if not even more difficult than the ascent as your feet and knees take a pummeling.

Southern California is home to myriad hiking trails, many of them at substantial altitude. In addition to the daily training I do at the Baldwin Hills Overlook, we've gone out most weekends to various trails to strengthen our ankles and build endurance. Over the years we've done lots of hikes just for fun but we knew we needed to ramp up if we were going to be successful on Mt Whitney. In April we started choosing serious trails both for distance and elevation. Our 1st big hike in April was to the San Gabriel Mountains just east of LA. We opted for the Winter Creek trail in the Big Santa Anita Canyon. Although the trail peaks at Mt Wilson we looped up to Mt Zion instead. It is by far my favorite of all the hikes so far - woodsy and shaded most of the way. It was a beautiful and recreational day as we clocked about 12 miles and a couple thousand feet in elevation gain, including a detour to the Sturtevant Falls.

In order to gauge how we would fare on Whitney we needed to get some serious climbs underway. The 3 highest summits in Southern California are San Antonio a.k.a Mt Baldy (10,064'), San Jacinto (10, 874') and San Gorgonio (11,503'). On Cinco de Mayo (May 5th for all you gringos out there) we drove up to the eastern San Gabriels to tackle Baldy. It was a gorgeous, crisp morning but we got a bit of a late start. Most mountain trailheads are a couple of hours drive outside of Los Angeles so even if we leave at 6 am it's late by the time we get there, stretch out and commence. Leaving the trailhead at 9am we didn't have a clue what was in store for us other than it is a 4000' elevation gain and a 11 mile round trip. Mt Baldy is a ski resort in winter so as you can imagine a few of the climbs we made were on super steep ski runs. We were on the Devil's Backbone trail and a devil it was. The views were spectacular especially on the saddle which is only a few feet wide with sheer vertical drop offs on either side and views of So Cal all around. Definitely harrowing as we struggled with gravity and climbed ever higher to the summit, aptly named for the lack of trees. And then we basically skied down in our hiking boots until we found the trail again. It took 5 hours to summit and 3 hours to get back down.
Our little mountain walk Up Whitney this summer is 22 miles round trip so it's important to test our distance endurance. After battling hellacious Mt Baldy we decided that distance without elevation gains was in order so off we set for the Sespe Creek trail in beautiful Los Padres National Forest. Situated near Ojai, up and up we wound the mountain road (in the car) to an elevation of approximately 4000 ' to the Sespe Wilderness. Our goal point was the Sespe Hot Springs - 19 miles round trip. It was a glorious late spring morning and the wilderness was brimming with wild flowers and good water flow in the creek. This is a gorgeous area and the trail is fantastic. I better qualify... fantastic if it isn't 87 degrees. Wow can that heat zap your energy! I had very important plans back in LA that night so I needed to get an early start. As it were the drive up there was a little farther than anticipated so we didn't get on the trail until about 9 - much too late when such a hot day is looming. In the end we didn't make it to the hot springs due to time constraints but we did manage about 14 miles round trip. This is definitely a trail I would like to return to - much earlier in the spring - and actually make it to the natural hot tubs. We talked with a guy who had been up there just 4 weeks earlier and he said there was still snow on the trail.

Inching ever higher to our goal of 14,500 feet we practically sprinted up San Jacinto in mid-June. There are numerous ways to access the summit but Jack and I opted for the Palm Springs tram to jet us up to 8000' in 10 minutes via a gondola hugging the rocky mountainside. You would think that the mountains would be cooler, especially at elevation but they jut up above the brutal desert floor and can get quite warm. Climbing through Idylwild was risky on this front so we cheated a bit by taking the Palm Springs Tram but the hike was still about a 2500' elevation gain and 10 miles. This was a beautiful and not too difficult trail. Again, 360 degree views of all of So Cal that will take your breath away. Making your way to the summit in the last 1/4 mile is a scramble over boulders all the while fighting the crowds for the best place to wedge in to capture your summit photo. It was an insanely windy day so there was no lingering, not that there's room anyway as it's really just a rock. Luckily my pack was quite heavy that day which I'm certain prevented me from blowing off the mountain.

Hiking days are very long and tiresome under the beating sun and bashing wind. I expect that Whitney will take us about 10-12 hours to summit and 8-10 hours to descend. Although it is not a marathon our permit is only good for 24 hours so I needed a gauge on what our time and mileage abilities are. Next up San G, the highest mountain top in Southern California. Permits are required in the San Bernardino National Forest and since the Vivian Creek trail is a popular training hike for Mt Whitney they limit the number of hikers on any given day. The trail is 9.3 miles to the peak and over a vertical mile in elevation gain (5,423'). Covering 18.6 miles round trip it took us 7.5 hours to ascend and 4.5 hours to amble back down. This was an ass-kicker. Thank goodness it wasn't overly hot. Luckily we even experienced intermittent cloud cover and sprinkles of rain otherwise this would have been an unbearable day. Overall, I found it easier than Mt Baldy but the added hours really push your limits.



You can see more pics of some of my favorite hiking spots and inspirational Mt Whitney on my pinterest board.

Spa-aaahh!

I love Olympic Spa. It's been a few years since I've been there and after today's "pure bliss" experience I don't know what took me so long to return. Pure Bliss is the name of the treatment which consists of a thorough body scouring, followed by a polishing scrub and warm water rinse, super slippery full body massage including scalp, finished by a soothing facial. I recommend spending a few minutes in the mugwort tea bath which is kept at a temperature unbearable fore more than 3-5 minutes and calm your burnt skin by dunking into the cold bath for an equal length of time. Steam and sauna for 10 minutes each are enough prep for the next hour and a half of the bliss that is sure to engulf you. If your gelatinous legs will carry you to the oxygen room for 2 minutes afterward do it before a little spot of tea and a nap on the heated floor. Treat yourself to an amazing Korean lunch and relax the rest of the day. Repeat. Sooner than every few years.

Old Baldy

As part of our prep for the Mount Whitney hike later this year, my friend and I have been making our way around the local mountains. Luckily we have lots of training ground within a couple hours driving. Today we climbed Mt. San Antonio a.k.a. "Mount Baldy", the highest peak in the San Gabriel Mountains measuring 10,064' and the 3rd highest peak in Southern California. It was killer but we did it and lived to tell about it. The ascent was over 4000 feet and we ticked off 10.5 miles round trip.

Mount Baldy is a popular skiing area and the chair lift runs all year long (for those who want to cheat). We started hiking at about 6000' and followed a pretty easy path up to 7800'. From there, it was a crawling incline through extremely steep and loose shale straight up to 8600'. It was tough but when I saw the war vet who'd lost both his legs in combat scaling that terrain with braces on his arms and prosthetic legs there was no way I going to complain. He was in training for the 7 continental highest peaks in the world, already surmounting 4 of them and leaving for Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, Africa in 6 weeks. Some people are so inspiring.

The next few miles over 1400 feet of elevation gain was equally and intermittently easy and strenuous. The air is much thinner at 10,000 feet making it a little more challenging. We were on a trail aptly named "devil's backbone" where in spots the trail is so narrow with vertical drop-offs on either side. It was a little harrowing given your center of gravity when the wind decides to kick up. This is a popular hike and two way traffic is common on a single file path with nary a crevice to slouch into at times. I was a bit unnerved at one point when I had to hug a bolder and shimmy around it to keep from toppling over the edge. The last mile to the summit was the most grueling of the entire ascent plodding our way up the steep and relentless switchbacks having to stop very often to muster the strength to put one foot in front of the other. Appearing like the surface of the moon and nicknamed for the absence of trees, Old Baldy's head was a welcomed sight. Incredible 360 degree views of So Cal with the other 2 highest peaks, San Gorgonio and San Jacinto, in snow-crested view made our efforts that much more rewarding.

After a lunch break and a picture we started our descent knowing it was downhill from here and expecting it to be easy breezy beautiful. My friend had experienced a mild panic attack when terra firma on either side was lacking and he refused to return the same way. So we took the other way where there wasn't exactly a clearly marked trail. In no time we were totally off the trail and literally skiing down the steep, slippery, rocky side of the mountain. Thank goodness we saw some other hikers and made our way toward them and the path they were on. However, the path was never very distinct - it was loose, steep and positively hazardous. I can say with certainty it was more difficult coming down than it was going up. Bye bye Baldy my old friend, never to see you again.

After all that I am so proud of our accomplishment and pleased with the gauge it provided on our abilities moving forward toward the big kahuna. Next up, San Jac. at 10,800'.

(props to my thoughtful photographer and hiking partner extraordinaire, J. Nitowitz)

Making Progress

deck in progress

I've had a final permit on our remodeled master bedroom/bathroom for a year now but we were (and still are) far from finished with our project. We need hardscape and landscape in both front and back yards and we can't agree on, well, anything. We have to build a deck off the back of the house and choosing the building material was no easy decision. I wanted wood, Damon wanted composite since he thinks he's the one that has to do the annual maintenance. I want drought resistant native California plants, he wants grass. Etc., etc., etc. To compound matters Damon returned to work (hallelujah) with a vengeance working 60 hours/week since the beginning of the year and has no time to work on the yard. With another summer fast approaching we decided to hire someone to build the deck so we can finally complete the work and entertain and cook out again. Here are a few photos of our master suite and the first stages of the deck.  More to come as we fill in the blanks.

bedroom (still need to build a bed)

bathroom vanity area

London - the other one

In Canada there is a medium-sized town smack in the middle between Detroit, Michigan and Toronto, Ontario called London. I consider it my hometown since all of my family are Londoners and I spent much of my formative years growing up there. London claims fame for things like the prestigious University of Western Ontario (UWO), Labatt's Brewing Company, and Kellogg's. Growing up I always thought it was a good place to raise kids or retire - in other words boring. But now that I'm older and visit every year I realize that there is quite a lot to do in the beautifully nicknamed "Forest City".

If it were just me visiting I'd probably lay on my Mother's couch for a week but since I bring my beau occasionally I need to find something that entertains him. Our last trip together was at Christmas so our activities were winter-centric but there's lots to do year-round. London is a pretty diverse community and being a University town there is opportunity for an eclectic array of recreation. Mostly urban sprawl complete with obnoxious traffic the contrasting downtown area is walkable and vibrant - a welcomed respite dotted with great restaurants, cool pubs and quaint coffee bars. Victoria Park is really the nucleus of the city and host to many events and festivals all year long. During Christmas all the trees are lighted and themed statues like the nativity scene and Santa Claus mark the pathways surrounding the ice skating rink. It's novel to lace up your skates and whirl around the pockmarked rink a few times and warm up afterward with some hot chocolate. We got into the Christmas spirit one night as we crunched along the snowy path after a family dinner at landmark Joe Kool's just across the street from the park. Midnight mass on Christmas Eve at St. Paul's Cathedral is another way to celebrate the holiday AND warm up.


The Thames river winds through town and forks downtown behind the Old Courthouse where I'm told they used to conduct public hangings. It is a beautiful old building modeled after a castle in Dublin, Ireland and today is a lovely wedding venue. We spent an afternoon across the street at the art museum. I was taken aback by this space and the works on exhibit. I've visited museums around the world and this one really holds its own. They have an amazing collection of artifacts from original native settlers of the area, primarily Iroquois and Chippewa tribes, and galleries large and small covering avant guard modern art and photography to modeling and textiles. Very impressive for such a conservative town. Sidebar: watch out for the goose poop - they hang out on the museum lawn and make quite a mess. A short walk up the river leads you to Eldon House, the oldest residence in the city. It is full of family heirlooms and surrounded by lush gardens. Docent led tours are available.

Of course I usually stay with family when I'm in town but if I needed a hotel I would choose the
Hotel Metro. It's a modern boutique hotel downtown in the thick of all the excitement. London was a military center for the Royal Canadian Regiment during the two world wars evidenced by the Armouries (now a hotel) and Wosley Barracks (now a museum), not to mention all the legion halls. There's plenty of history to explore if you're so inclined so grab a infamous Samy's Soulvaki, home of London's legendary gyro, and trek on.

A really cool thing to do when you're in town is a tour of the Labatt Brewery. The operation is a bustling production amalgamating old traditions with modern technology. I was impressed to learn that there is little to no waste at all during the process. At the end of the cycle a truck pulls up under the spent grains vat and hauls it off to a local farm for re-purposing as vitamins in animal feed or soil additive. The bottles can be recycled and reused over 20 times before they have to be retired. This tour is a sensory circus culminating in a buzz-fest in the tasting room. Afterward a stroll through the historic Covent Garden Market keeps the sensory party going. This is where you'll find your souvenir maple syrup from local sappers along with organic fruit and veggies, grass-fed beef and homebaked breads - all from area farmers and artisans. Be sure to check out the composting worm guy and don't forget to stop in to Gambrinus Bistro pub to refresh and give your dogs a rest. They have an amazing selection of craft brews.

Activities abound depending on the time of year and your interests. From hockey games at the John Labatt Center to live theater productions at the Grand Theater London has something for everyone. In summer it's beautiful to hang out by the river and bike ride through Springbank Park. During winter snow shoeing and cross country skiing is available in the park. Festivals like Rib-fest, the Greek festival and a battalion of outdoor concerts flood the city's parks and open spaces drawing the community out of winter hibernation. The Western Fair, originally a livestock show, is celebrated annually for a week in early September in modern form. The land around London is still mostly agricultural. Incidentally there is a rather large Mennonite population in the vicinity and St. Jacobs is the heart of Mennonite country. Here you'll find farmer's markets, artisan shops and furniture craftsmen and loads of antiquing. If there's a chance to go to an auction during your visit it's highly recommended. Other seasonal activities include trips to the sugar bush to tap maple syrup in spring as well as local strawberry or corn picking is summer and apple picking in the fall.

Situated amongst the Great Lakes, accessing the beach or heading up to cottage country is easy even necessary in the sweltering heat and humidity of mid-summer. Algonquin Park is God's country, especially in fall when all the leaves are turning color. Canoeing and fishing are among the most popular things to do there. London is little more than an hour away from Niagara Falls. The Niagara region has become quite prolific at cultivating grapes for winemaking - primarily ice wine. It's fun to tour the area and stop in to tasting rooms. I learned to "chew" wine at one of the popular vineyards there. I also learned that grapes used in ice wine must be harvested at an exact temperature which can be in the middle of a bitterly frosty night in January. The vintner closely monitors the grapes and calls in the pickers when they're ready. Down river from the falls is Niagara-on-the-Lake, a quaint little town where a major festival takes place - the Shaw Festival (as in George Bernard Shaw). Likewise, an hour from London in a different direction lies another festival town, Stratford - the home of the Shakespeare Festival (as in William). A tradition, though, is to drive to Port Stanley for a day at the beach on Lake Erie and grab some fresh-cut, skin-on, super hot french fries from Mackies and gob on the special sauce (I prefer malt vinegar). And then stop at Shaw's ice cream on the way back to London.

Toronto is just a hop, skip from London but as such an amazing town it deserves it's own post. If you ever find yourself in the London area Toronto is a recommended destination that will not disappoint.

Niacin Flush

Recently I had one of those department store beauty counter make-overs. In talking about my general skin condition and noticing that I had a bit of acne the sales girl suggested I try niacin (vitamin B3) to detoxify my skin. She said I may feel a bit flush initially but that I should mark a noticeable difference in my skin within a week. Sounded harmless enough so I thought I'd give it a try. I went to the vitamin shop and saw two types of niacin side by side. Both bottles had the same number of pills of the same strength - one was $4 and the other $20. The more expensive one said anti-flush on the bottle but I didn't think it was worth 5 times the price so I took the cheap one and went home. The only vitamin I take daily is a calcium pill fortified with magnesium and vitamin D so the next day when I took my vitamin I popped the niacin pill as well and left home. Ten minutes later I recall feeling a little warm. I looked at my skin and I was bright red all over! It looked and felt like a severe sunburn. (I have experience with these things since I'm so fair and used to be a sun worshiper.) The process, about an hour passes from start to finish, runs the course of sensations just like a sunburn insomuch that you have burning then the tingly, itchy feeling followed by a little chill.  It's weird; I wouldn't say painful but definitely a little uncomfortable. So I was wishing I'd not been so cheap and got the anti-flush formula. I jumped online to find out wtf? I read up and discovered that the flush is supposed to happen in order for B3 to be effective. What happens is the capillaries under the dermis open wide so as to release impurities and detox your innards. I thought perhaps you'd develop tolerance over time but so far I've done it a dozen times with the same result. I found this video on youtube if you want to check it out. I also put up a picture of myself during the flush. Ignore all the chins and focus on the redness of my skin. Incidentally, my skin does seem to be improving. I still get a pimple here and there but it goes away faster when I flush. My pores are smaller too but I can't say for sure it is the niacin since I've been making my own moisturizer for some months now which consists of vitamin A (lanolin), vitamin E, aloe vera and rose water. It's cheaper and better than all that expensive crap with ingredients you can't read.